If you are pouring a large quantity of ArtResin epoxy resin on a big canvas, there is a risk of the weight of the resin causing the canvas material to sag in the center. To avoid this, first brush on a very thin preliminary coat of resin. This first coat will make the surface very stiff. After you have this hard base, apply a second coat to get the thickness you want. You can also support the canvas by custom cutting a piece of MDF board or cardboard and fitting it in the back of the piece, under the crossbar of the stretcher. Alternatively, you may want to work on wooden panels which will not pose the same risk of sagging.
How long will bubbles continue to form?
Bubbles can continue to form for up to 60 minutes after the curing process has begun. The best way to get rid of them is to run an Artist's Torch over the surface of your resin. You can also blow on the surface or pop the bubbles with a toothpick, but the most efficient and effective method by far is to use the Artist's Torch.
Will bubbles eventually pop on their own?
Many bubbles do pop on their own. If you are looking for a flawless, glass-like surface however, you will want to use a torch (e.g. our Artist's Torch) over the surface, as this is the best way to eradicate all bubbles.
Can I spot fix small imperfections in my resin cure?
Unfortunately, we don't recommend spot fixing for the simple reason that it's very difficult to sand out a small area where there might be an issue, such as a bubble, hair, or even where a bit of dust landed in your wet resin. It's almost impossible to get a seamless finish by pouring a fresh patch of resin on top of the original resin coat.
Instead, we recommend that you sand down the entire surface and pour another perfectly measured, well mixed coat of ArtResin over the entire piece for an even, flawless finish!
If you notice soft, sticky areas in your resin application that do not seem to be curing properly, this always means that the chemical reaction was not able to happen properly—either through unequal measuring or non-thorough mixing. You will have to scrape off any wet material as best you can, sand down any dried, cured resin, and pour another coat over the entire thing. Your artwork underneath will not be disturbed. Make sure you scrape away all non-cured material, otherwise the stickiness could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Resin that remains sticky days after being poured will stay sticky indefinitely until measures are taken to fix the situation.
How can I fix a greasy top layer on my resin?
Sometimes when resin is left to cure in cold conditions, the surface can develop a greasy film from the amines in the hardener. This film rapidly clogs sandpaper. The best thing to do if you detect this greasiness is wash it with warm water mixed with a small amount of dishwashing detergent. The amines are water soluble and will wash away easily.
While it is extremely important to stir the resin and hardener thoroughly for 3 minutes or ArtResin may not cure properly, you really can't overstir. Just remember that you have a 45 minute window in which to pour before the resin will start to cure and become to thick to work with. So when you stir, make sure you go slowly and methodically, and that you scrape the bottom and sides as you go. Try not to whip the resin because that will just induce more bubbles than you need. If you detect bubbles in the ArtResin epoxy resin after stirring, you can simply torch them out with our Artist's Torch.
Although torching is the number one way to eliminate bubbles from your ArtResin epoxy resin surface, you must be careful not to over-torch. Move your Artist's Torch across the surface smoothly and without stopping, much like you would use an iron over clothing.
How can I fix an uneven coat of epoxy resin?
Simply apply another layer of ArtResin epoxy resin overtop once the first layer has cured. Remember to keep your piece perfectly level to avoid having the same thing happen twice. Make sure to sand in between the layers so they adhere to each other properly. The second coat will go over the first and be perfectly clear.
If my first layer of epoxy resin is scratched, will the scratch show through once I apply a second coat?
The scratchy, scuffed look of the first layer will not appear once you apply the second coat.
How can I remove large pieces of cured resin (e.g. on a piece that got knocked out of level)?
Depending on the shape and slope of your piece, a sander or hand planer would work to pare down cured resin. A second coat would bring back the gloss and hide the white rough surface left by the planer or sander. You could also try simply applying a second coat from the outset to level a slanted surface.
How can I avoid lines or streaks in my epoxy resin?
Be sure to do all your spreading well within the pot life span (usually 40-50 minutes). If you try to spread ArtResin epoxy resin after it has already begun to cure, it could dry leaving textural lines in it. Typically the pot life span is plenty of time to get everything spread.
How can I avoid getting 'dimples' in my ArtResin surface?
Dimples can occur when the resin cures in cooler temperatures, or if there is a temperature dip in the first 24 hours of a cure. Always aim for a stable room temperature of between 72-77F or 23-25C when curing your artwork.
Dimples can also result from surface contaminants ( such as dust particles ) landing in your wet resin. Ensure your resin room is as free of dust as possible and always use a dustcover to protect your work while it cures.
Dimples can also result from overtorching. Make sure you only lightly pass the torch two or three times over the resined surface, always keeping it moving, and don't hold it too closely or in one place for too long.
Why does my ArtResin epoxy resin look milky white or cloudy?
ArtResin's ideal working temperature is between 72-77F or 23-25C. Resin colder than this is thick, clumpy, hard to work with and looks milky because it's full of thousands of microbubbles (which you'll never be able to torch out.)
Carefully warming up the unopened resin/hardener bottles in a warm water bath for about 10 minutes can greatly mitigate this issue. Be aware that warming your resin in a waterbath cuts down your working time by about 10-15 minutes, so time yourself accordingly.
Dry your bottles thoroughly after removing them from the waterbath - even a single drop of water into the mixture can cause it to turn cloudy and prevent it from curing properly.
Once you combine the resin and the hardener together, a chemical reaction takes place to begin the curing process. Heat is produced during this chemical reaction and is completely normal. Heat output is greater with greater quantities of the resin mixture. ArtResin epoxy resin is formulated to protect against yellowing caused by thermal energy (heat).