FAQ 5 - Troubleshooting


          1. How can I keep my canvas from sagging in the middle under the weight of the ArtResin?

            • Watch the video: Using Stretched Canvas vs. Using Wooden Panels with ArtResin
            • If you are pouring a large quantity of ArtResin on a big canvas, there is a risk of the weight of the resin causing the canvas material to sag in the center. To avoid this, first brush on a very thin preliminary coat of resin. This first coat will make the surface very stiff. After you have this hard base, apply a second coat to get the thickness you want. You can also support the canvas by custom cutting a piece of MDF board or cardboard and fitting it in the back of the piece, under the crossbar of the stretcher. Alternatively, you may want to work on wooden panels which will not pose the same risk of sagging.
          2. How long will bubbles continue to form?

            • Bubbles can continue to form for up to 60 minutes after the curing process has begun. The best way to get rid of them is to run an Artist's Torch over the surface of your resin. You can also blow on the surface or pop the bubbles with a toothpick, but the most efficient and effective method by far is to use the Artist's Torch.
          3. Will bubbles eventually pop on their own?

            • Many bubbles do pop on their own. If you are looking for a flawless, glass-like surface however, you will want to use a torch (e.g. our Artist's Torch) over the surface, as this is the best way to eradicate all bubbles.
          4. Is there a way to buff out small imperfections?

            • Yes, there are a few options to fix small imperfections
            • 1. You could put on another coat of ArtResin over the entire surface. This is usually the most effective way of solving this issue.
                  Watch the video: Applying a Second Coat of ArtResin
            • 2. You could use a scratch/buffing compound typically used on aquariums. Look for this at your local pet store. You will need to rub very hard.
            • 3. You could use rough sand paper either over the entire piece, or just over the blemish. Then, use a rubbing compound or plastic polish found in automotive stores. Apply with a fine, soft cloth, rubbing until the shine comes back.
          5. How can I get rid of soft, sticky spots in my resin after a day of drying?

            • If you notice soft, sticky areas in your resin application that do not seem to be curing properly, you will have to scrape off the wet material and pour another coat. Your artwork underneath will not be disturbed. Make sure you scrape away all non-cured material and wipe the surface before re-coating, otherwise the stickiness could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat. Resin that remains sticky days after being poured will stay sticky indefinitely unless measures are taken to fix the situation. It is a result of the mixing ratio being off in some way, or mixing that was not thorough enough. If you have measured and mixed your resin properly, this problem will not occur.
          6. How can I fix a greasy top layer on my resin?

            • Sometimes when resin is left to cure in cold conditions, the surface can develop a greasy film from the amines in the hardener. This film rapidly clogs sandpaper. The best thing to do if you detect this greasiness is wash it with warm water mixed with a small amount of dishwashing detergent. The amines are water soluble and will wash away easily.  
          7. Is it possible to over-stir my ArtResin?

            • It is extremely important to stir thoroughly, otherwise the ArtResin may not cure properly. It is not typically troublesome if you stir more than the recommended 3 minutes. If you detect bubbles in the ArtResin after stirring, these can be popped in many ways - no problem. 
          8. How can I fix an uneven coat of ArtResin?

            • Simply apply another layer of ArtResin overtop once the first layer has cured. Remember to keep your piece perfectly level to avoid having the same thing happen twice. Make sure to sand in between the layers so they adhere to each other properly. The second coat will go over the first and be perfectly clear.
          9. If my first layer of ArtResin is scratched, will the scratch show through once I apply a second coat?

          10. How can I remove large pieces of cured ArtResin (e.g. on a piece that got knocked out of level)?

            • Depending on the shape and slope of your piece, a sander or hand planer would work to pare down cured resin. A second coat would bring back the gloss and hide the white rough surface left by the planer or sander. You could also try simply applying a second coat from the outset to level a slanted surface.
          11. How can I avoid lines or streaks in my ArtResin?

            • Be sure to do all your spreading well within the pot life span (usually 40-50 minutes). If you try to spread ArtResin after it has already begun to cure, it could dry leaving textural lines in it. Typically the pot life span is plenty of time to get everything spread.
          12. How can I avoid getting 'dimples' in my ArtResin surface (i.e. where resin drops have landed in the rest of the resin)?

            • When you pour your ArtResin, make sure you pour everything out at once. Do not pour any last drops out at a later time, as these drops could have begun to cure already, which would mean that they would not assimilate into the rest of the resin seamlessly.
          13. Why does my ArtResin look white or cloudy?

            • Even a drop of water that gets into a resin mixture can cause it to turn cloudy. 
          14. Why does my ArtResin mixture feel hot?

            • Once you combine the resin and the hardener together, a chemical reaction takes place to begin the curing process. Heat is produced during this chemical reaction and is completely normal. Heat output is greater with greater quantities of the resin mixture. ArtResin is formulated to protect against yellowing caused by thermal energy (heat).