What's The Best Way To Pack Resin Art For Shipping?Posted on 30 Sep 11:31
Proper packing with the correct materials helps to protect your resin artwork, preventing damage and ensuring it arrives safely to its destination. ArtResin's Rebecca has some great tips for packing small to medium sized pieces of art:
1. First, ensure your resin has fully cured.
2. Wear gloves and work on a cushioned surface.
3. Next, wrap your piece with glassine paper, parchment, butcher or kraft paper.
4. Then, wrap the entire piece with padding material like polyfoam or fabric.
5. If desired, use cardboard protectors on the corners of your wrapped artwork.
6. Finally, box and send.
For large pieces of art that require extra care, resin artist Mike Hammer shares his techniques, step-by-step, for packing your art like a pro with custom-made wooden crates.
Rebecca's Packing Do's and Don'ts - 0:27
Mike Hammer's Small Crate - 6:12
Mike Hammer's Big Crate with Strapping - 9:05
Mike Hammer's Viewing Crate and Shipping Container - 10:55
How To Pack Small & Medium Pieces Of Resin Art:
Step 1 - Set Up
First, and most importantly, ensure your resin has completely cured. Please don't wrap or ship your artwork before the 72hr mark. Though it may seem ready before this point, it won't have had a chance to dry all the way through and will be vulnerable to denting and marking.
💡TIP: A full ArtResin cure is 72hrs for a standard 1/8" pour. If you pour thicker than this, please allow even more time for the resin to fully cure.
Wear nitrile gloves and wrap your artwork on a soft blanket. You don't want to get fingerprints, smudges, or dents on that glossy resin finish.
Step 2 - The First Layer
The first layer really is the most important as it will be laying directly against the surface of your artwork, so choose wisely.
ArtResin's material of choice for this important first protective layer is Glassine art paper. Glassine is a glossy, super smooth, non-abrasive, acid-free paper and, unlike tissue paper, it's moisture and grease resistant and has no tooth so it won't stick to your resined surface. It's no wonder that it's used by art galleries and museums to wrap their paintings.
You can buy glassine paper in sheets or rolls at the art store or on Amazon. Glassine is not necessarily cheap, however it is by far the best paper to wrap delicate artwork in. If glassine paper is too costly, try parchment, butcher paper or kraft paper. They are cheaper options, but be aware that they aren't acid-free.
💡TIP - DO NOT put plastic packing materials of any kind directly on the surface of your cured epoxy resin surface. Plastic will stick and leave marks that are very difficult to remove! Bubblewrap especially is a big no-no! It's notoriously bad for leaving small, circular impressions on your resined surface. If you do use bubble wrap, use it as exterior padding only ensuring that the bubble side is facing out, away from your artwork, to minimize any chance of marks.
Step 3 - The Outer Layer
Once you have a barrier, glassine or otherwise, you need to cushion appropriately with padding. ArtResin's padding of choice is polyfoam, but other good options include: fabric, canvas, sheets, towels, or cardboard.
Finally, box and send. Just like that, you’re done and your piece is properly protected.
Now ... these are all great tips for packing small to medium sized pieces. But what about those large works of art that require a little extra care? Well, we went to visit our friend Mike Hammer to learn how to pack your large format art like a pro.
How To Pack A Large, Heavy Piece Of Resin Art:
Meet Toronto resin artist Mike Hammer:
Mike is famous for his large format blob paintings, which he regularly ships to both clients and art galleries around the world. Due to the nature of his paintings ( their weight, the impressionable resin surface and the delicate paint drips on the sides of his work ) and after having pieces damaged in transit, Mike developed a custom wood crating system for shipping his large pieces of artwork to keep his paintings fully protected.
Here are Mike's 3 main crates:
Crate 1 is the smallest of his wood crates.
- Using 3/4" plywood, Mike creates a frame that is about 6" longer and wider than the artwork he is packing, allowing for a 2-3" gap on all sides.
- Once his frame is built, he applies styrofoam to the interior of the frame with a glue gun to protect the artwork on all sides.
- Next, he builds the front and the back of the frame using 3/8" plywood and applies the back of the frame.
- Using 3/4" plywood bumpers to raise up his artwork ( and protect the drips on the sides of his artwork ) he screws the bumpers in to both the back of the painting and to the back of the frame, allowing the painting to essentially float in the frame.
- Last, he screws the face of the frame on, and the piece is ready to go.
Crate 2 is essentially same as Crate 1, but bigger to accommodate larger and heavier piece. Strapping on the front and back provides strength and reinforcement.
- Just like with Crate 1, Mike builds the frame using 3/4" plywood and 3/8" plywood for the front and back.
- Next, Mike applies 3/8” plywood strapping in a grid on the front and back for extra support, strength and rigidity
- Mike also includes the bumper on the back of his artwork and ensures he screws the bumper not only to the backing, but to the strapping too.
Crate 3 is a perfect option for storage and for shipping multiple pieces of artwork.
Crate 3 uses a two-part method: the first is to create a viewing crate for the artwork. The second is to create a shipping container which can house 4-5 separate viewing crates.
- Just as in Crate 1 or 2, Mike starts the viewing crate by building a frame with 3/4" plywood, allowing for a 6" overage, and lines it with styrofoam.
- Rather than a full front or back, however, Mike applies two or three 3/4" plywood slats on both sides. These not only act as braces, but they allow for easy viewing.
- He then applies a bumper to the back of his artwork ( cutting it on a 45 degree angle to allow for hanging ) and screws the bumper to the back slats to allow the painting to float.
- Next, he staples plastic lining to the front and back to keep the piece dust free and protected, while still allowing for easy viewing.
- Last, Mike creates a larger shipping container. Using OSB, he creates a face and back, framing it with 2x3 plywood for strength and stability. Mike sandwiches the painting in between the front and back, then builds the top and bottom out of OSB framed with plywood.
- He then creates the sides, allowing one side to open and shut like a door - this allows him to easily slide 4 or 5 pieces in and out. He often includes legs on the bottom of his piece so that the piece may be picked up with a forklift.
We hope you enjoyed these great packing suggestions!
Remember, damage to your artwork can be avoided by ensuring your resin has fully cured and investing in the proper materials and packing techniques.
Your artwork is valuable and special and worth protecting :)