How To Resin Live Edge Wood

Posted on 10 Apr 12:24

Live edge wood - the name pretty much says it all, right? 
A slab of wood in its natural state, with the raw line of the tree trunk left intact along its edge.  

But ... live edge wood is so much more!  

It represents a much more holistic approach:  an approach in which those parts of the tree's history once viewed as flaws ( such as holes, knots, burls, curves ) are instead honoured for their unique beauty.   

Live edge wood has captured the attention of ArtResin artists for good reason:
- epoxy resin makes wood positively glow, highlighting the colour and natural beauty of the grain
- resin gives wood a slick, smooth, shiny finish, all while protecting and preserving it like nothing else can. It's the perfect bridge between rustic and modern!
- a piece of live edge wood is like a piece of organic artwork, proving yet again that Mother Nature is the best artist :) And ArtResin's super glossy, crystal clear formula transforms wood into functional one-of-a-kind works of art and great conversation pieces!
- ArtResin epoxy resin is FDA approved, making it safe for use on cheese boards, charcuterie boards and other surfaces that come in contact with food!
Join ArtResin's Rebecca and her brother Jordan as they team up to coat a live edge slab of wood with ArtResin, turning it into a gorgeous charcuterie board! 

As always, Rebecca shares a ton of helpful tips and insight along the way :)

And in our new series, How To Resin A Live Edge Wood Board, Joanne takes us step by step on how to resin a live edge wood charcuterie board!  In Part 1, Joanne explains how and why pre-sealing is best practice to achieve a beautiful ArtResin finish!

In Part 2, Joanne and Dave sand down the pre-seal coat in preparation for the first pour of crystal clear ArtResin

Joanne is back for Part 3, and ready to transform our live edge piece of wood into a gorgeous, food safe Charcuterie board!

First, she tapes off the bottom edges of the tray to help deal with potential drips, rubs in another very thin coat of ArtResin and then is ready to start layering inside the hole.

But before we get started ...
Joanne has to seal the hole on the bottom so that the resin has a base to stick to.
So since ArtResin doesn't adhere permanently to plastic, a piece of acetate cut to the shape of the hole and taped to the bottom is the perfect solution!
The resin will stick to the acetate, but it can easily be peeled off once the resin has dried.

Once we are all prepped, the fun begins ... our first layer of ArtResin!

Now you may be wondering ...
"Hey ArtResin.  Why do you need to pour layers instead of filling the hole in one big ol' pour?"

Good question!!

It's because the ideal ArtResin pour is 1/8" thick - this allows space for bubbles to escape to the top so they can be torched out. And especially when working with an organic object like wood that releases a lot of trapped air, it's a good idea to err on the side of caution and work in multiple, thin layers, torching after each one - as many layers as you like until you get to the height you desire.
So much safer to go slow and steady.
After all, we don't want a stray bubble ruining all our hard work!!

After the hole is filled, Joanne applies one more layer that spills over the top of the hole. Next episode, when this layer has cured, Joanne will sand it down so that the entire surface of the tray is flush and ready for that final, perfect pour of super glossy ArtResin!

Stay tuned for Part 4 when our board is complete!!