What safety precautions should I take when using epoxy resin?
1) First and foremost, always avoid contact with your skin. Wear disposable gloves. If you do get resin on your skin, clean with soap and water only (vinegar, . . ….
acetone or other solvents will allow the skin to absorb the resin).
2) It’s best to wear goggles when dealing with resin to protect your eyes. If you get resin in your eyes, do not rub – flush with water repeatedly and seek medical . …
3) Work in a well ventilated area. Do not breathe in resin fumes directly, even if you do not detect much odor. If you sand the resin once cured, avoid breathing in the . .
If you follow these simple precautions, you should not have anything to worry about!
How is resin different from varnish?
Resin is similar to varnish in that it gives a glossy, protective finish – only resin is MUCH thicker and can be applied all at once. When cured, the resin will look the same as 50 coats of varnish – glassy, glossy, shiny, beautiful.
How can I be sure the resin application will not ruin my artwork?
If you are inexperienced with resin, first try it out on a test surface. As long as your piece is dry and free of loose material, you should be fine. Please be advised that resin yellowing can occur over time, and is most noticeable over light colors.
What can I use ArtResin on?
ArtResin will bond to every medium, with the exception of wax paper. Be careful when using certain soft media like pastels, etc., that could smudge or release color into the resin during the application process. We have used resin on wood, acrylic and oil paints, encaustics, raw canvas, inks, paper collage, watercolours, digital photographs and found objects. The best thing to do is experiment and have fun!
Is there anything that ArtResin is not compatible with?
Avoid pouring resin over loose materials (this may include chalk pastels). Anything that is not completely adhered to the surface of your work could potentially mix into the resin in its liquid form once its poured.
What kind of coverage can I expect?
The ArtResin Studio Kit consists of 1 gallon of resin and covers about 35 square feet (i.e. a 5′ x 7′ piece, for example). The Sample Kit is 32 oz and covers about 8 square feet (i.e. a 4′ x 2′ piece). If you want your resin to look thicker, you will need more to cover the same surface area.
What's the conversion between ounces, cups, pints, quarts and gallons?
128 ounces = 16 cups = 8 pints = 4 quarts = 1 gallon
What other supplies are useful to have?
* Measuring cups – to measure equal parts of resin and hardener
* Mixing bucket – a larger vessel to mix the resin and hardener in
* Mixing sticks – wipe them down when done mixing and reuse
* Resin spreaders – plastic spreaders can be wiped off with paper towel after spreading and used again and again
* Disposable brushes – brushes are not typically able to be reused with resin
* Foam brushes – very useful for spreading and finishing edges, but again, not typically reusable
* Tape – since resin does not typically bond to tape, it can be used to tape off edges to collect the resin as you spread (but requires that you finish the edge with a sander afterward)
* Level – like any liquid, resin will flow downward if it’s on a slope. A perfectly level piece of art will have a perfectly level resin finish!
* Sand paper – to sand down high peaks in a textured piece so nothing will poke through the resin surface (unless you want this effect – it could look cool)
* Blow torch (or heat gun) – the most effective method of getting rid of bubbles. Run the flame over the surface once leveled and watch the bubbles disappear! A small torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. for finishing creme brulee) may be a less intimidating way to start.
* Pigment – an opaque color additive to mix in with your resin
* Dye – a translucent color additive to mix in with your resin
* Paper towel
* Drop Cloth – Note: fabric drop cloths will soak up the resin and potentially leak through to the floor below, whereas plastic
cloths will leave the resin sitting on top
* Plastic Sheets – useful as a drop cloth or to make a tent overtop of curing resin to keep the dust out
* Safety goggles
* Disposable Gloves
What’s the difference between polyester resin and epoxy resin?
Polyester resin is typically used for casting (i.e. pouring into molds). Epoxy resin (such as ArtResin) is best for coating because it is more adhesive than polyester, is stronger and experiences less shrinkage than polyester.
What about longevity?
If kept indoors, your epoxy resined piece should last for years. Epoxy resin is similarly used to seal the bottoms of boats and to cover bar tops – therefore, it is very durable. Occasionally, due to the chemical composition of epoxy resin, over time slight yellowing can occur where the resin has been used over white and light colored areas. Exposure to UV light will accelerate yellowing. Non-exposure to UV light does not guarantee that yellowing will not occur.
Does yellowing occur?
All epoxy resins on the market will resin to some extent over time, due to their chemical composition. Many resins have a non-yellowing agent added to them (such as our Professional Kit), but can still yellow slightly over time, especially if exposed to the sun. Yellowing is usually only noticeable over white and light colored areas. Exposure to UV light will accelerate yellowing. Non-exposure to UV light does not guarantee that yellowing will not occur.
What are the health warnings associated with resin use?
Please take the health risks seriously. Epoxy resin hardener is toxic. Do not swallow it. If you get it on your skin, over time and with repeated exposure, resin can cause an allergic reaction. Do not breathe in fumes, and always wear a respirator even if you do not detect fumes.
Why are the 2 resin parts not already mixed?
The two parts in epoxy resin – the resin and the hardener – experience a chemical reaction when combined, joining together to make new molecules that are characteristically hard and solid. This cured state is final; the material cannot be melted or molded, but it can be sanded.
Is there a risk of fire or explosion in using a blowtorch to get rid of resin bubbles?
No, epoxy resin is not flammable. Of course, common sense and caution should be used when operating a blow torch. If you are worried about using a blow torch, try using a heat gun instead. – By the way, I found that using a small blow torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. finishing creme brulee) was a less intimidating way to start with a blow torch.
What does a blow torch do for resin?
Propane blow torches are recommended as being most effective for use with ArtResin epoxy resin in removing occasional bubbles that may occur. Heat guns and hair dryers are not as effective, as they do not produce carbon dioxide needed to eliminate the bubbles. It is best to have a blow torch with a control valve to lower the flame to keep the flame from heating up the resin body as it’s trying to cure. If this happens, it can cause the finish to alligator, or even create more bubbles. Using a flame also burns off any lint and small airborne particles as it licks the surface.
When using a blow torch, always keep the flame moving and do not keep going over and over the same spot if you have a stubborn bubble. Take a toothpick or pin and remove the bubble, then lightly run the flame over the area and the resin should smooth out.
By the way, I found that using a small blow torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. finishing creme brulee) was a less intimidating way to start with a blow torch.