The largest resin FAQ on the web – created BY artists, FOR artists

What safety precautions should I take when using epoxy resin?

1) First and foremost, always avoid contact with your skin. Wear disposable gloves. If you do get resin on your skin, clean with soap and water only (vinegar, .         . ….acetone or other solvents will allow the skin to absorb the resin).
2) It’s best to wear goggles when dealing with resin to protect your eyes. If you get resin in your eyes, do not rub – flush with water repeatedly and seek medical .  …attention.
3) Work in a well ventilated area. Do not breathe in resin fumes directly, even if you do not detect much odor. If you sand the resin once cured, avoid breathing in the . .  sanding dust.
If you follow these simple precautions, you should not have anything to worry about!  

How is resin different from varnish?

Resin is similar to varnish in that it gives a glossy, protective finish – only resin is MUCH thicker and can be applied all at once. When cured, the resin will look the same as 50 coats of varnish – glassy, glossy, shiny, beautiful.  

How can I be sure the resin application will not ruin my artwork?

If you are inexperienced with resin, first try it out on a test surface. As long as your piece is dry and free of loose material, you should be fine. Please be advised that resin yellowing can occur over time, and is most noticeable over light colors.

What can I use ArtResin on?

ArtResin will bond to every medium, with the exception of wax paper. Be careful when using certain soft media like pastels, etc., that could smudge or release color into the resin during the application process. We have used resin on wood, acrylic and oil paints, encaustics, raw canvas, inks, paper collage, watercolours, digital photographs and found objects. The best thing to do is experiment and have fun!  

Is there anything that ArtResin is not compatible with?

Avoid pouring resin over loose materials (this may include chalk pastels). Anything that is not completely adhered to the surface of your work could potentially mix into the resin in its liquid form once its poured.

What kind of coverage can I expect?

The ArtResin Studio Kit consists of 1 gallon of resin and covers about 35 square feet (i.e. a 5′ x 7′ piece, for example). The Sample Kit is 32 oz and covers about 8 square feet (i.e. a 4′ x 2′ piece). If you want your resin to look thicker, you will need more to cover the same surface area.

What's the conversion between ounces, cups, pints, quarts and gallons?

128 ounces = 16 cups = 8 pints = 4 quarts = 1 gallon

What other supplies are useful to have?

MIXING
* Measuring cups – to measure equal parts of resin and hardener
* Mixing bucket – a larger vessel to mix the resin and hardener in
* Mixing sticks – wipe them down when done mixing and reuse
SPREADING
* Resin spreaders – plastic spreaders can be wiped off with paper towel after spreading and used again and again
* Disposable brushes – brushes are not typically able to be reused with resin
* Foam brushes – very useful for spreading and finishing edges, but again, not typically reusable
* Tape – since resin does not typically bond to tape, it can be used to tape off edges to collect the resin as you spread (but requires that you finish the edge with a sander afterward)
* Level – like any liquid, resin will flow downward if it’s on a slope. A perfectly level piece of art will have a perfectly level resin finish!
FINISHING
* Sand paper – to sand down high peaks in a textured piece so nothing will poke through the resin surface (unless you want this effect – it could look cool)
* Blow torch (or heat gun) – the most effective method of getting rid of bubbles. Run the flame over the surface once leveled and watch the bubbles disappear! A small    torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. for finishing creme brulee) may be a less intimidating way to start.
TINTING
* Pigment – an opaque color additive to mix in with your resin
* Dye – a translucent color additive to mix in with your resin
CLEAN UP
* Rags
* Paper towel
* Drop Cloth – Note: fabric drop cloths will soak up the resin and potentially leak through to the floor below, whereas plastic
cloths will leave the resin sitting on top
* Plastic Sheets – useful as a drop cloth or to make a tent overtop of curing resin to keep the dust out
SAFETY
* Safety goggles
* Disposable Gloves
* Respirator

What’s the difference between polyester resin and epoxy resin?

Polyester resin is typically used for casting (i.e. pouring into molds). Epoxy resin (such as ArtResin) is best for coating because it is more adhesive than polyester, is stronger and experiences less shrinkage than polyester.

What about longevity?

If kept indoors, your epoxy resined piece should last for years. Epoxy resin is similarly used to seal the bottoms of boats and to cover bar tops – therefore, it is very durable. Occasionally, due to the chemical composition of epoxy resin, over time slight yellowing can occur where the resin has been used over white and light colored areas. Exposure to UV light will accelerate yellowing. Non-exposure to UV light does not guarantee that yellowing will not occur.

Does yellowing occur?

All epoxy resins on the market will resin to some extent over time, due to their chemical composition. Many resins have a non-yellowing agent added to them (such as our Professional Kit), but can still yellow slightly over time, especially if exposed to the sun. Yellowing is usually only noticeable over white and light colored areas. Exposure to UV light will accelerate yellowing. Non-exposure to UV light does not guarantee that yellowing will not occur. 

What are the health warnings associated with resin use?

Please take the health risks seriously. Epoxy resin hardener is toxic. Do not swallow it. If you get it on your skin, over time and with repeated exposure, resin can cause an allergic reaction. Do not breathe in fumes, and always wear a respirator even if you do not detect fumes.

Why are the 2 resin parts not already mixed?

The two parts in epoxy resin – the resin and the hardener – experience a chemical reaction when combined, joining together to make new molecules that are characteristically hard and solid. This cured state is final; the material cannot be melted or molded, but it can be sanded.

Is there a risk of fire or explosion in using a blowtorch to get rid of resin bubbles?

No, epoxy resin is not flammable. Of course, common sense and caution should be used when operating a blow torch. If you are worried about using a blow torch, try using a heat gun instead.  – By the way, I found that using a small blow torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. finishing creme brulee) was a less intimidating way to start with a blow torch.

What does a blow torch do for resin?

Propane blow torches are recommended as being most effective for use with ArtResin epoxy resin in removing occasional bubbles that may occur. Heat guns and hair dryers are not as effective, as they do not produce carbon dioxide needed to eliminate the bubbles. It is best to have a blow torch with a control valve to lower the flame to keep the flame from heating up the resin body as it’s trying to cure. If this happens, it can cause the finish to alligator, or even create more bubbles. Using a flame also burns off any lint and small airborne particles as it licks the surface.
When using a blow torch, always keep the flame moving and do not keep going over and over the same spot if you have a stubborn bubble. Take a toothpick or pin and remove the bubble, then lightly run the flame over the area and the resin should smooth out.
By the way, I found that using a small blow torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. finishing creme brulee) was a less intimidating way to start with a blow torch.

Can I resin oil paintings and oily surfaces?

Yes. Some artists recommend waiting up to six months to let the oil thoroughly dry. Other artists resin over oil paint as long as it is dry to the touch on the surface. The resin will fully seal in whatever you pour it over.

Can I resin paper or photographs?

Yes. Resining will seal in all kinds of papers, including photo paper, tracing paper, linen paper, origami paper, etc. Resin isn’t like normal liquid; if you pour it on paper, it doesn’t soak into it, provided you are using a decent quality paper. If you apply wet resin on dry paper, you will be able to touch the other side of the paper and it will be dry. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a small piece of scrap paper first.

Can I resin over acrylic paint? Does resin act as a solvent, meaning it will dissolve the painting?

Yes, you can resin over acrylics. ArtResin epoxy resin will NOT act as a solvent on acrylic, so long as the surface you are resining is dry. If you are curious or hesitant as to what the outcome will be, simply conduct a test on a practice surface first.

Can I resin over water-based marker? Should I seal it first?

Yes, you can resin over water-based marker once dry. There is no need to seal your work first – ArtResin epoxy resin is the ultimate sealant!

Is more resin required over paper? Does the paper absorb the resin?

No, paper does not absorb the resin, provided it is of decent quality. You can pour resin on paper and the other side of the paper will be dry. Resin has a thick consistency as is, but you can always apply as thick or thin as you like. For highly textured pieces, you may want to apply a very thick layer (or do two thinner layers) to cover the tall peaks.

Can I resin over chalk pastels?

Yes, but use caution. Chalk pastel is made up of loose particles that could mix with the resin. If you are applying a large quantity of resin, you may be able to tilt the surface (e.g. your canvas or board) in order to spread the resin around – much like batter in a cake pan – instead of using the spreaders. This may help prevent mixing.  

Can I resin textured artwork?

Yes. Depending on how high the texture is, you may need to apply multiple coats if you want a perfectly flat surface on the top. To apply multiple layers of resin, first allow the first coat to dry, then sand down the pieces that are sticking up. The sanded areas will no longer be glossy- that is, until you resin your next layer, when it will be clear and glossy again.  

What is the best, supportive surface to use resin with?

Canvas, since it is a fabric, can sag in the middle of its stretcher under the weight and density of resin. Instead, you can buy wooden ‘canvases’ at any art store (or build your own). The extent to which a canvas may sag depends on how big the canvas is and how much resin you poor over it.

What materials will ArtResin NOT stick to?

Resin does not stick to disposable paint tarps, plastic sandwich/grocery bags and the non-sticky side of shiny tape. There are also special molds that are made with release-compounds for use with epoxy resin.

Is ArtResin epoxy resin paintable?

Yes. Epoxy resin can be painted on, on top of its surface. Some artists mix resin with pigment or dye and use it like paint.

How hard is ArtResin once cured?

ArtResin is extremely hard! Once cured, it is heat resistant and scratch resistant.  

Does cracking in the resin occur?

No, cracking does not typically occur. ArtResin is very hard once cured.

Is cured ArtResin waterproof?

Yes, ArtResin is a permanent application that seals in whatever it is poured overtop of.  

Can resined artwork be hung outside?

 ArtResin is not recommended for exposure to UV light, as this will cause the resin to yellow.  

Will my unused ArtResin expire or go bad?

As long as the containers are stored properly and sealed, epoxy resin will stay usable for many years.

Can I resin over glossy spray paint?

 Yes. Just wait until the paint is dry first.

Will magazine clippings fade under resin?

Usually magazine clippings will hold true to their colors, but it helps to paint the surface underneath white. Then resin as usual overtop.

What glue should I use to hold paper to a surface prior to resining?

Try a glue stick – they do not contain much water, there is minimal risk of the paper rippling before you resin.

Can I thin the resin out?

Though thinning resin can be done, it is not typically necessary and therefore not typically recommended. There are two methods of temporarily thinning epoxy. One is to heat the mixture and the other is to add solvent to the mix. Thinning epoxy with heat can create problems, however; warm epoxy cures much more quickly than you may be accustomed to. Have things organized before you mix the resin and hardener and move quickly. If smoke rises from the curing epoxy, it is likely that the epoxy is damaged and should be replaced. Do not overheat! As for solvents, such as acetone and lacquer thinner, these can affect the strength and moisture resistance of the cured resin. As always, be careful and do a practice test first.

Can I resin fabric?

Yes, it will make the fabric stiff and rock hard when it cures. Be advised that the resin will make the fabric look wet (i.e. possibly alter its color).

Can I apply epoxy resin with a roller or an air gun?

Yes you can use a roller (i.e. a printmaking brayer) to spread resin. You should wipe it down as soon as possible after resining so it doesn’t ruin the roller. An air gun is not recommended for use with resin because it will clog the passageway as it cures. The easiest way to apply resin is by dragging the resin across the surface with an epoxy resin spreader.

How can I make my own wooden support for resin (like a canvas made of wood)?

1. Cut masonite board (MDF board) to the dimensions you want
2. Measure length of masonite and cut wooden edges to match that length. For small pieces, use 2″x1″ wood. For larger pieces, use 2″ x 2″ wood so it’s stronger.
3. Use wood glue/corrugated nails to attach the edges to the board.
4.  OPTIONAL: You can also use flat ‘L’ brackets to screw into the back to make the corners stay tight. If the piece is large, consider adding a diagonal cross-piece of wood from corner to corner for extra support.
5.  Sand corner outer edges. Fill in gaps with wood filler putty. Let dry and sand again.
6. To prime the wood, use gesso from an art store or white ceiling paint from the hardware store.

Where should I resin?

You should use resin either outdoors or in an area with good ventilation (i.e. a garage with the door open). Resin should be used kept and used at room temperature, in an environment that is not too humid, otherwise surface film and other defects can occur in your resin. 

How do I mix and stir properly?

Measure equally and accurately! Adding too much of part A or B will alter the chemical reaction and desired effects. When you scrape the resin out of its container, avoid getting every last bit out; material on the sides may not be mixed thoroughly. As for stirring, make sure to stir thoroughly. If bubbles appear, don’t worry. Not stirring properly will result in sticky resin that never fully cures.

How do I spread the resin?

To spread, just use a flat semi-strong object (i.e. something that can stand up to the density and weight of the resin – something stronger than just thin paper). Typically you will have to dispose of your spreading tool, unless you purchase epoxy resin spreaders, which are made to be reused over and over again.

How do I prepare the surface for resin?

Make sure the surface is dry, dust free, wax free and grease free. Check that the piece is level. You will want to set up a drop cloth underneath your work area. Prop your piece up on support blocks so you can resin the sides easily.

How do I use support blocks when resining?

It is a good idea to have your piece raised off the ground on support blocks (e.g. empty plastic containers) so you can allow the resin to spill down the edges without pooling at the base, which would cause the resin to adhere to the table top.  

What do I do after I pour the resin?

Resin is self-leveling. This means you can leave it alone, so long as you have a level surface. You may want to spread it around with a brush, clean piece of wood, or a reusable resin spreader to guide the resin into place.

What is ‘pot life’?

Pot life refers to the time you have to work with the resin before curing sets in and it becomes too stiff to manipulate. With ArtResin epoxy resin, the pot life is about 30 minutes. You are best to apply the product as soon as it’s mixed.

What is ‘cure time’? How long does resin take to harden?

Cure time refers to the amount of time it takes for the resin mixture to be totally finished its chemical reaction and it is at its hardest. With ArtResin epoxy resin, the cure time is about 48 to 72 hours, however you can touch the surface after about 6 to 8 hours without it feeling sticky.

Can I get a matte finish from epoxy resin?

ArtResin epoxy resin will be glossy. If you sand it, it will lose its sheen however. You could also spray it with a non-glossy spray varnish to remove the gloss.

How do I get the resin to dry faster?

Resin dries (cures) faster with more heat. You can increase the room temperature or use heat lamps to encourage a quicker cure.

How do I get rid of bubbles?

You can try a few techniques: blow on it with a straw, scrape with a trowel, run a blow torch over the surface at about 6-8 inches distance. The blow torch is most effective because it uses carbon dioxide to force the bubble out. – By the way, I found that using a small blow torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. finishing creme brulee) was a less intimidating way to start with a blow torch.

How do I deal with drips?

Drips can be sanded off afterwards, or you can use tape to mask out your edges to stop this before it happens. You can also smooth away drips while they’re still wet, with a brush.

How can I protect the resin from dust?

Put a protective covering over your resined piece (e.g. a big cardboard box). If you are working in a garage, wet the garage floor to keep the dust down.

How do I take photographs of my resined artwork without glare?

For the serious photographer, an area light will create an atmosphere similar to a semi-cloudy day outside. Also, a white tent with allow you to reflect light onto your piece while projecting light away from it. If you are an artist who simply wants to document their work, just try adjusting your lights and the angle of the piece until you get a good shot without glare. If you know how, you could also take the photo in a dimmer light, and adjust the levels and color in Photoshop.

How long should I wait between each coat?

You should wait until the first coat of resin has cured, or at least until the resin has cured to the touch (i.e. it is no longer sticky).  

How do I know when the resin is mixed fully and ready to use?

Mix for at least 2-3 minutes, and then mix a bit more, just to be sure.

How can I clean up easily and effectively?

You can clean with acetone (the main ingredient in nail polish remover, which can be bought at any hardware store). Also, vinegar will work. Use disposable gloves and have paper or drop sheets on the ground to keep clean up simple.  note: Don’t use acetone of vinegar on your skin – remove material from your skin with soap and water.  Solvents allow the resin to break down which lets it be absorbed into your skin)

Can I resin sculpture? How would I apply it since it's 3D?

Yes, resin has the viscosity of honey, so you would brush it on. The resin will (slowly) run to the bottom, so you will need a power grinder/sander to finish the bottom edges where it pools. Repeat until everything is covered to your desired thickness.

How thick can I apply resin?

You can apply resin as thick as you want. You may want to apply in multiple coats, in which case, you should wait for the resin to cure between coats.

Can I add color to ArtResin?

Yes, there are pigments and dyes that will tint resin. You can also try combining pigment and dye colors to create new, unique colors.  

Can I use ArtResin over Organic Material such as Butterfly Wings and Bugs?

Yes, ArtResin can be used over mixed media and collage artwork, no matter the material that comprises it – this includes organic material such as butterfly wings and other small insects. The resin will seal in the organic substance, protecting it from the air and preserving its natural wet color. It would be advisable to chose items that are fairly flat so the resin is sure to cover them completely. Use caution when pouring and spreading over delicate areas of your artwork and be aware that the resin is thick and can be heavy if a large amount is used. Because of this, you may wish to apply the resin in thin coats.

Can I get a textured surface with resin?

Yes, to achieve a textured surface, apply two coats of resin. Apply the first coat as usual and use a rag to apply the second one. This textured look looks great and covers up any imperfections that may have resulted.  

How can I create a watercolor effect within the resin?

Mix translucent dye into the resin at the mixing stage. Try multiple colors, either all at once or separated in different containers. Then apply as usual. You can also experiment with pouring ink into the resin for an interesting effect.

Can I use resin on stone?

Yes, you can resin on stone. This will really bring out the natural colors of the stone. If you plan on having the stone outside, keep in mind that resin will yellow if exposed to UV light.

Can I use resin on walls?

Yes, you can resin walls. Keep in mind the resin will travel down the wall with gravity before it cures. This may result in a pool of resin on the floor.  

Can I use resin on a guitar body?

Yes, you can resin over a guitar. Work in multiple thin layers to avoid dripping. Use caution that you do not get resin on the strings.

Can I drill into the resin after it dries?

Yes, if you use caution. Wear a respirator to avoid breathing in drilled dry resin bits. Start with a small hole first, drilled with a tiny drill bit. Work your way up from there to avoid the risk of the resin cracking. Do not drill close to the edge. 

How can I achieve a layered effect with resin?

Work in multiple coats, painting/collaging/imbedding objects as you so desire between the coats. Depending on how thick you do your coats, this could have an effect much like a shadow box.

How can I achieve an antique look with resin?

In the mixing stage, use a small amount of amber colored translucent dye and apply as usual.

Can I make jewelry with resin?

Yes, try experimenting with colored pigments and dyes, poured into plastic molds or organically onto a plastic surface. Add attachments like hooks, pins, beads and gems either as the resin is curing, or afterward using glue.

How can I double-side my resin (i.e. resin on both the front and back)?

Resin each side separately, allowing the first side to fully cure before moving onto the second side. Then use a hand sander on the edges and smooth them out. Brush on thin coats of resin over the edges.

Can I cover a natural object (e.g. a leaf)?

Yes, you can cover natural objects. As long as they are totally sealed and no air can get to them, they will last forever (like a mosquito in amber). Natural objects will take on their wet appearance under resin (usually slightly darker colors). Be advised that yellowing can occur over time.

Can I encase an object in resin (e.g. a penny)?

Yes. Flatter objects, like pennies, will be easier to cover totally.  

How can I resin over a curved surface?

Usually it is important to make sure the piece you’re resining is level, but in the case of a curved surface, brush on multiple thin layers of resin.  

Can I resin plateware and ceramics?

Yes, resin is safe to use on surfaces that are meant to come in contact with food. Epoxy resin is non-toxic when cured. It is often used for bartops, tables in restaurants, and in food factories. Simply apply the resin with a brush and wait until it has fully cured before serving food on it.

What will happen if I do not spread the resin once it's poured?

Resin is self-leveling, so it will spread itself out to a certain extent without anyone touching it. After about 20 minutes, you can push the resin into different positions and it will hold its shape because it has begun to thicken and cure.

Can I use epoxy resin as a glue?

Yes, epoxy resin can be used as glue. In fact, it may be the strongest glue you will ever use. Mix and stir as usual, and apply as necessary.

Can I paint over a layer of dry, cured resin with acrylic paints, gouache, inks?

Yes, you can work on top of dried resin for a layered effect. It is recommended that you then cover your new layer of artwork with a second coat of resin, as the new layer may not adhere well for the long term unless it is encased in another coat of resin.

How can I keep my canvas from sagging in the middle under the weight of the resin?

If you are pouring a large quantity of resin on a big canvas, there is a risk of the heavy liquid resin causing the canvas material to sag. To avoid this, first do a very thin preliminary coat of resin. This first coat will make the surface very stiff. After you have this hard base, apply a second coat to the thickness you want. Alternatively, you may want to work on wood supports which will not present the same risk of sagging.

How long will bubbles continue to form?

Bubbles could continue to form for up to 20 minutes. The best way to get rid of them is to run a blow torch over the surface of your resin, which will suck the oxygen out of the resin and keep bubbles from forming. You can also scrape the surface or pop the bubbles with a toothpick, but the most efficient and effective method by far is to use the blow torch.

Will bubbles eventually pop on their own?

Unfortunately, bubbles will not eradicate themselves from your resin surface. If you don’t mind their textural effect, then leave them and enjoy the look. If you are looking for a flawless, glass-like surface however, you will want to pop the bubbles.  

How long will resin last with exposure to weather?

Resin is often used on boats, so it is designed to be very durable against the elements, with the exception of holding its clear appearance. Resin will yellow with acceleration in the event that it is exposed to UV light.

Is there a way to buff out small imperfections?

Yes, there are a few options to fix small imperfections
1. You could put on another coat of resin over the whole surface. (May seem overkill)
2. You could use a scratch/buffing compound typically used on aquariums. Look for this at your local pet store. You will need to          rub hard.
3. You could use rough sand paper either over the entire piece, or just over the blemish. Then, use a rubbing compound or plastic polish found in automotive stores. Apply with a fine, soft cloth, rubbing until the shine comes back.

How can I get rid of soft, sticky spots in my resin after a day of drying?

If you have measured and mixed your resin properly, soft, sticky spots in your resin application will not occur. However, if you notice such areas that do not seem to be curing properly, you may have to scrape off the wet material and pour another coat. Your artwork underneath will not be disturbed. Make sure you scrape away all non-cured material and wipe the surface before re-coating, otherwise the stickiness could eventually leak out from under the new resin coat.

How can I fix a greasy top layer on my resin?

Sometimes when resin is left to cure in cold conditions, the surface can develop a greasy film from the amines in the hardener. This film rapidly clogs sandpaper. The best thing to do if you detect this greasiness is wash it with warm water mixed with a small amount of dishwashing detergent. The amines are water soluble and will wash away easily.  

Is it possible to over-stir my resin?

It is extremely important to stir thoroughly, otherwise the resin may not cure properly. It is not usually troublesome if you stir more than the recommended 3 minutes. If you detect bubbles in the resin after stirring, these can be popped in many ways – no problem.

How can I fix an uneven coat of resin?

Simply apply another layer of resin overtop once the first layer has cured. Remember to keep your piece perfectly level to avoid having the same thing happen twice. The second coat will go over the first and be perfectly clear. 

If my first layer of resin is scratched, will the scratch show through once I apply a second coat?

The scratchy look of the first layer will not appear once you apply the second coat.

How can I remove large pieces of cured resin (e.g. on a piece that got knocked out of level)?

Depending on the shape and slope of your piece, a sander or hand planer would work to pare down cured resin. You could also try simply applying a second coat to re-level a slanted surface. Also, a second coat would bring back the gloss and hide the white rough surface left by the planer or sander.

Why does my resin have yellowy-green spots in it?

This is not how resin is expected to behave. If resin is stored in hot or cold temperatures (i.e. not at reasonable room temperatures), it will expire and can have this kind of effect. Expired resin cannot be expected to perform up to par.  

How can I avoid lines or streaks in my resin?

Be sure to do all your spreading well within the pot life span (usually 20-30 minutes). If you try to spread resin after it has already begun to cure, it could dry leaving textural lines in it. Typically 20 minutes is plenty of time to spread resin.

How can I avoid getting 'dimples' in my resin surface (i.e. where resin drops have landed in the rest of the resin)?

When you pour resin, make sure you pour all the rest out at once. Do not pour any last drops out at a later time, as these drops could have begun to cure already, which would mean that they would not assimilate into the rest of the resin seamlessly.

Why does my resin look white or cloudy?

This is not how resin is expected to behave. If resin is stored in hot or cold temperatures (i.e. not at reasonable room temperatures), it will expire and can have this kind of effect. Expired resin cannot be expected to perform up to par.

How can I increase the value of my artwork?

Artwork coated in epoxy resin has a richer, more dramatic look and can typically fetch more in sales. Also, using gallery canvases (2″ thick edges) can increase the value of the artwork because these are not meant to be framed. As a result, the client spends more on the art from the artist but saves money in the long run because they don’t have to pay for framing.  

How can I finish the resin surface most effectively and efficiently?

A blow torch is your best friend for a perfect finish. Once you have poured your resin and it is spread out evenly, run a blow torch over the surface at a distance of a few inches. You will see the bubbles rise to the surface and burn away any dust particles or hairs. It is your best resource for a flawless finish. Once you use the blow torch however, don’t touch the resin again – the surface will be partially cured, so if you touch it, it could leave marks.) – By the way, I found that using a small blow torch designed for kitchen use (i.e. finishing creme brulee) was a less intimidating way to start with a blow torch.

How can I use resin over chalk pastel?

Spray your work with varnish to pre-seal the pigments and avoid them mixing with the resin.

What is the best surface to work on when using resin?

Though resin can be used on anything from fabric to canvas, to paper and ceramics, et cetera, if you are using a large quantity of resin, you will need to apply it to something strong enough to hold its weight. A wood surface (a.k.a. support) is very strong and reliable under the weight of resin. It will typically not sag or buckle, and can be painted any color as a background.

What is the best way to mount paper for resining?

If you are resining over a collage, watercolour paper or mixed media with white/light coloured paper, it is recommended that you mount the paper on a white surface. Depending on the paper you are using, your paper could turn slightly translucent under the resin, so if the surface underneath is white then your images will retain their true colors. It is always recommended that you try the resin out over your paper of choice first on a test surface.

Why should I experiment with resin?

As with most things, practice makes perfect. Your second resin job will be better than your first. The third resin job will be even better again. Keep in mind that you may not get everything perfect your first try, and that the best way to learn is to make mistakes so you can improve! Experimenting is both necessary and fun. Of course once you’ve tried using resin, you will be hooked!

How can I pack my resin paintings without having anything stick to the top resin layer?

Try using sheets of cling wrap over the surface and separate them with cardboard for transportation. Run a blow dryer over the cling wrap to make the surface peel off like a new cell phone screen. Towels or blankets can also provide good cushioning.

How can I photograph my finished ArtResin Creations?

A soft ‘Area Light’ is ideal. Try setting up a big white tent out of white sheets… and light the OUTSIDE of the cloth – this will help keep a soft light with no ‘hot spots’… you also need to angle the camera and piece the right way to avoid reflections. TIP: take 100 pictures – and 1 will be perfect!