Do you need to use a sealant before you resin?

In most cases, no, you don't need to use a sealant before applying ArtResin; however, there are some situations when sealing first makes sense. The most common are:

1. Sealing to prevent resin from absorbing into your project.
2. Sealing over materials to prevent them from becoming loose.
3. Sealing over objects that may release air bubbles into the resin.

If in doubt, it never hurts to use a sealant first, but we always recommend doing a test on a scrap piece so you know exactly what results to expect.
Today we’re going to go over each of the reasons why sealing first can be a good idea and share which sealant works best in each case.

What sealant should I use on my artwork before I resin?

There are lots of sealants available on the market, from spray sealants to brush on sealants but no matter which one you choose, there are a few rules of thumb to keep in mind:

• Choose a sealant that dries clear:  Even better, choose a sealant labeled UV Resistant or Non-Yellowing. The sealant should be working in conjunction with ArtResin’s UV light stabilizers and not against them. Different sealants yellow at different rates and when a piece appears to be yellowing, it can often be the sealant under the resin that’s yellowing.
• Choose a sealant appropriate for your artwork: 
  There are sealants specifically suited for photographs, for charcoal drawings, for alcohol ink and so on, so read the label to ensure that you’re choosing the right product for your project.
  
  
• Follow the directions:
  Whichever sealant you choose, always follow the label directions.  Make sure the sealant has thoroughly dried before you apply the resin or you may end up with a cloudy cure.
  
  

Should I use a brush-on sealant or a spray sealant?

 

Depending on your artwork, brush on sealants and spray sealants both have pros and cons. The material you plan to resin should determine the most suitable sealant for your project. 

Brush on sealants are easy to apply, offer excellent control for fine details, you can work it into nooks and crannies on objects like wood or collage work, and it offers great protection: typically one coat will suffice. On the other hand, it has a slower dry time, you may see brush strokes, it could damage delicate objects like dried flowers or butterfly wings, and can smudge drawings or ink.

Spray sealants dry quickly, provide a nice even coating without brush strokes, you can cover a large area in a short period of time, and many spray sealants are non-yellowing and offer UV protection. On the other hand, you need drop cloths to prevent everything around you getting covered in sealant, they can have a really strong odor, you will need to wear a mask if you're not working in a well-ventilat
ed area and you may require multiple coats to get really good coverage. 

3 Reasons For Applying A Sealant

1. Sealing To Prevent Absorption: 
 

Epoxy resin can seep into projects, causing dark or wet looking spots in paper, wood, fabric, cork, terracotta, clay, cement and other porous mediums. If the material darkens in a way you don't want, applying a sealant to act as a barrier against absorption is a good precaution. 

Do I need to seal paper before I resin?

The best way to know whether your paper needs to be sealed is to test on a scrap piece first.  You can drop on a bit of resin to see if it absorbs or sits on top. Paper is available in so many different varieties and qualities so it’s really important to be aware of the paper you’re resining over.

Typically soft, matte paper like pastel paper or low quality paper like construction paper or newsprint will absorb resin, so these will need to be sealed.  You may need to seal more than once to prevent the resin from seeping into the paper.  

Higher quality paper doesn't require sealing, for example cardstock, watercolor paper, glossy photo paper or the glossy paper you’ll find in high end magazines..  These types of papers are typically coated - that is, it's coated with a sealant at the time of manufacture.

Do I need to seal a paper collage before I resin?

Even a glossy, high quality coated paper may absorb resin if it has been torn or cut, like in a paper collage for example, because that protective seal sitting on top has been broken and the interior of the paper has been exposed.
If you're concerned that the resin may absorb into your paper collage, seal it first.  The paper you use will determine if you need a spray or brush on sealant, but a brush on sealant offers more control on a piece that may have folds, nooks and crannies.

How do I seal a puzzle?

Puzzle pieces can also absorb resin. Though the surface image is usually glossy and coated, the resin can soak in along the edges where it has been cut, leaving a dark outline in the final piece. Before you resin a puzzle, brush on a couple of coats of sealant (including the back and the perimeter) to create a barrier that will prevent the resin from soaking in.

What type of sealant is best for paper?

As far as what sealant to use, it really depends on the your project, factoring in both the paper and the medium. If in doubt, test on a scrap piece first to let you know which sealant is most appropriate. 

The paper should be sturdy enough to handle a brush on sealant. For example, a delicate paper like a stamp might curl and tissue paper could even tear by brushing on a sealant.

The artwork will also help determine which sealant is most appropriate: a brush on sealant might cause a charcoal or pastel drawing to smudge. In this case, there are spray sealants specifically for drawings.  

How do you seal paper before you resin it?

To apply a brush on sealant, use a clean brush (or a foam brush if you are concerned about brush strokes) and apply an even coat over the surface of the paper. Once the first side has dried, turn the paper over and repeat on the other side.

Use a toothpick to hold the piece in place if needed.




If you find that the paper has curled, allow it to dry. Place it in between two pieces of parchment paper, placing it in the pages of a heavy book for a day or two to flatten out.

To apply a spray sealant, use smooth, steady movements. Apply several coats in this fashion, ensuring the entire surface is covered. To provide a really good barrier, you may need to spray multiple coats of spray sealant on paper, front and back. Allow the first side to sufficiently dry, then turn the page over and spray the back. ⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: If you're not working in a well-ventilated area, wear a mask when using spray sealants.

How do you seal alcohol ink on yupo paper?

To seal an alcohol ink painting on yupo paper, use a spray sealant called Kamar Varnish. Kamar Varnish won’t reactivate alcohol ink, causing it to bleed or smudge. Spray Kamar varnish over the entire alcohol ink piece in a light sweeping motion. Allow to dry according to label instructions.

Should I seal fabric before I resin?

Resin will make fabric stiff after it cures, but be aware that some fabric may absorb the resin, causing it to look wet or altering its color.  Help to reduce this wet look by sealing the fabric with a brush on sealant first. Again, we always recommend testing on a scrap piece of fabric so you know exactly what to expect: use a little drop of resin or water on both sealed and unsealed fabric so you know what it will look like after it's been resined. 

Do I need to seal wood before applying epoxy?

Wood looks gorgeous under a coat of resin, with a deep, rich color and enhanced grain, but since wood tends to absorb resin, it’s important to test first. Just like paper, there are many variables when it comes to wood - the type of wood, the age of the wood, the color, the dryness and all of these factors can affect the final result. You may find that some wood gets really dark under resin, or in the case of something like barn board, that weathered, silvery looking patina is lost. 




Testing wood before you resin is as easy as dropping a bit of water on the surface to see what it might look like once coated. 99% of the time, it’s going to look better, but if it does change color in a way you don’t want, then sealing the wood first can create a barrier to prevent the resin from soaking in and changing the color. 

A brush on sealant provides an efficient seal and allows you to work it into holes or knots in the wood. Raw wood absorbs resin like a sponge, the barrier you create with the sealant will prevent you from potentially having to do multiple coats of resin - so that’s a nice bonus.

 

2. Sealing Over Loose Material

When pouring resin over a piece that has loose materials, be mindful of particles that might float away in the liquid resin. Glitter, beach art that contains real sand, dried flowers, butterfly wings or other natural objects, and drawings made with charcoal or chalk pastel might allow particles to become loose.

A spray sealant is a perfect way to protect artwork with loose materials,  tacking them down to prevent particles from floating away in the resin. 

3. Sealing To Prevent Bubbles

Organic materials such as wood and paper contain air which can release into resin in the form of bubbles. These air bubbles are typically large and release as the resin is curing, sometimes even a couple of hours after pouring. You might resin your piece, torch it, put the dust cover on and come back the next day to find that your piece has released a big fat bubble or cluster of bubbles.

Bubbles can also occur with wood and there are several factors that might play a role: the type of wood, how dry the wood is, if there are any cracks, knots or voids in the wood and so on. The best way to prevent unwanted air bubbles is to seal the wood first before you resin it.  



A brush on sealant is the best option for wood: it provides great coverage, creates an efficient barrier and is easy to work into cracks, knots and holes. You can use a very thin coat of resin applied with gloved hands or a foam brush, but be aware that even a thin coat of resin can alter the color of the wood.  As always, we advise testing first so you know exactly what results to expect.

Paper can release air bubbles into resin in a few different ways:

Paper Collages: Gaps and spaces in between paper collage layers provide an  opportunity to trap air, which can release as bubbles into the resin. A brush on sealant is easy to work into crevices with a small brush, but testing on a small scrap of paper will best determine whether a brush on or spray sealant is most appropriate.

Paper that has been mounted: Prints or photographs mounted on a wood panel, for example, can be prone to releasing bubbles. Air can get trapped in between the print and panel and release clusters of bubbles, so it’s important to mount your prints well.  Use a spray adhesive for even coverage and roll with a brayer to ensure a tight bond with no air pockets.

Embedded objects: Natural objects should be thoroughly dried and sealed prior to placing them in resin. Once placed in the resin, gently move your object around with a toothpick to allow any trapped air to release to the top. In the end, it’s well worth babysitting your project, checking it regularly for the first couple of hours until the resin has thickened up.

Here's Rebecca with a recap!




There are a few reasons why sealing before you apply ArtResin is a good idea:

• To prevent absorption
• To tack down loose materials
• To create a barrier against air bubbles
  
  

You can use a spray sealant or a brush on sealant, but we recommend the following:

• Choose a sealant that dries clear.
• Choose a sealant that is most appropriate for your artwork. 
• Allow the sealant to fully dry before you apply your resin coat. 
• Most important, test first before you resin so you know exactly what results to expect.

We hope this answers all of your questions about sealing your artwork before you resin.  If not, please leave your question in the comments below.


Learn how to use ArtResin over organic natural surfaces.

Congratulations to artist Quia Z. Atkinson, our latest Instagram winner! 

Quia is a full time artist based in Talahasee, Florida who creates artwork that stimulates the viewer's sense of sight and touch. Whether it's a bright pop of candy color or a luxurious palette of gold, champagne and bronze, her work features textural elements such as crushed glass, quartz and other decorative embellishments.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by 𝐀𝐫𝐭𝐢𝐬𝐭 𝐐𝐮𝐢𝐚 𝐙 𝐀𝐭𝐤𝐢𝐧𝐬𝐨𝐧 (@qzdesigngallery)

 

Congratulations on your win, Quia!

What Is A Dutch Pour?

A Dutch Pour is a type of flow art that involves adding pouring medium to acrylic paint until it’s a pourable consistency.  Several colors are then poured onto a canvas and moved around with blown air (often from a hairdryer) to create cells, lacing, ribbons and other colorful effects.

Guest artist Christine Fitzgerald specializes in Dutch Pours and enjoys putting her own creative spin on what she sees in nature. Today, Christine shows us how to incorporate resin and the Dutch Pour technique in two different ways:

1. A Traditional Dutch Pour: using epoxy resin to clear coat an acrylic Dutch Pour painting.
2. A Resin Dutch Pour: using epoxy resin as the pouring medium to create an abstract painting.

Christine demonstrates her most popular fluid art design, a Dutch Pour Sunflower painting, and shares many invaluable tips and techniques she has learned along the way.

Let’s get started!

How To Create A Dutch Pour Sunflower

Sunflowers are a favorite for so many people, so Christine wanted to capture a Dutch Pour sunflower as realistically as she could. She used multiple shades of yellow, in addition to metallic paints, to replicate the depth and dimension you’d see in nature.

Supplies You'll Need:

• 16 x 20 wood panel, painted white
• Liquitex Basics White Acrylic
• Artist Loft Black Acrylic
• 4-5 acrylic paint colors in the palette of your choice. Ideally, half should be metallic. Christine used Artist Loft Copper, Liquitex Basics Primary Yellow, Folk Art Paint Company Color Shift in Deep Yellow, Liquitex Basics Naples Yellow, Liquitex Basics Deep Yellow, and Pebeo Iridescent Gold.
• Pouring medium, like Floetrol, or make your own with white glue and water
• Cups and stir sticks - one per color
• Torch
• Stands to prop your panel up (painter’s pyramids or plastic cups)
• Hairdryer (with the nozzle attachment on)
• Masking tape
• Epoxy Resin
• Nitrile gloves
• Measuring Cup
• Mixing Stick
• Spreader
• Plastic drop sheet to line your work surface
• Dust Cover

Explore our resin art tools & supplies!

Step 1 - Prepare The Panel and Work Surface

 

The day before you intend to pour, paint the wood panel white using acrylic paint or gesso and allow to dry for 24 hours. Line the work surface with a plastic drop sheet or a vinyl shower curtain. Ensure your tools are on hand and easily accessible. Prop the painted panel off of the work surface using painter's pyramids or plastic cups.

Step 2 - Prepare The Acrylic Paint & Pouring Medium

 

Choose your palette, using 4-6 colors, plus white and black. Christine recommends that half the paint colors should be metallic to provide dimension. You can use store bought metallic paint or add a bit of gold acrylic to your solid acrylic colors to give them some shimmer.

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A Tip From Christine: Use a variety of brands when choosing your acrylic paints. Each brand has its own unique formula - these different formulas will react with each other to create better cells.

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Next, prepare the paint by adding the pouring medium. Use a pre-made pouring medium (such as Floetrol) or create your own pouring medium, as Christine does, using white school glue and water. The glue acts as a binder, preventing the water from breaking down the pigment which could diminish the paint’s opacity and vibrancy.

A general rule of thumb is to mix two parts glue, one part paint and enough water as necessary until it’s the consistency of pancake batter.  It should be fluid enough to pour and be blown out with the hair dryer. Each brand of acrylic will have a different thickness so the amount of water may vary. Ultimately, all the color blends should end up with the same consistency so that the paint moves at the same rate.

Use large plastic containers to blend each paint color with the pouring medium. Once the paint is a pourable consistency, like batter, then pour each color into small plastic shot glasses. The smaller cups will make it easier to control the amount you pour.

For this project, we prepared approximately 1 oz total of each color blend, approximately 8 oz of black and approximately 16 oz of the white blend.

Step 3 - Create The Sunflower's Center

Using a wooden craft stick, draw the outline of the black sunflower center on one side of the panel.




Fill in the space by pouring the paint from the cup, spreading it out with the craft stick, ensuring it spreads down the edges of the panel. Apply a generous amount of paint so ensure a good flow.

Step 4 - Apply The White Base

Apply a generous amount of white over the entire surface of the panel - it’s always better to have more than less. Spread the paint out evenly so that the entire panel is covered in paint.

Spread the white paint alongside the black, leaving a gap between the two for the other paint colors. If you don’t leave space, the paint will blend too much and can go muddy.




Give a quick pass with the torch to pop any bubbles that might be hiding under the paint.

Step 5 - Apply The Paint Colors 

Starting with the copper, pour as close to black as possible, even overlapping slightly to create cells from the paint colors lying on top of each other.




Apply the rest of the colors, one by one, following the same pattern as the copper. Start with Liquitex Basics Deep Yellow. Follow this with the Color Shift Deep Yellow, the Primary Yellow and finally the Naples Yellow poured side by side in between the black paint and the white. Make sure you carry the design down over the sides of the panel. 

Step 6 - Drizzle Petal Shapes

Using a popsicle stick, drizzle petal shapes on top of the design you’ve just created. Christine suggests using gold only as an accent in this way because it has a tendency to take over. When blown out with the hairdryer, the lines will look like the veins you’d see in a flower petal.



Go over the gold petal shapes with copper, and then once more with the Liquitex Basics Deep Yellow to give it a little more depth.



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A Tip From Christine: Don’t overthink it as you’re applying the paint. Remember, it doesn’t have to be perfect. The great thing about fluid art is that it’s forgiving and your piece will still turn out beautifully.

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Step 7 - Fill In The Bare Spots

Divots or dry spots need to be filled in or they will create breaks in the flow when you blow the paint. The body of the painting should have a generous layer of white to encourage the colors to flow across the panel. 

Once the gaps have been filled in, the surface has been evenly and generously coated with paint, and you've given one final pass with the torch, we are ready to blow the paint with the hair dryer.

Step 8 - Blow The Paint With The Hair Dryer

Holding the hairdryer upside down, angled down and with the nozzle attachment on, blow the paint from the black center out into the body of white paint to create petals. Repeat this petal by petal, blowing the paint in one fluid movement so that you don't interrupt the flow. 

Repeat until you’ve created petals radiating out all around the black center.

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A Tip From Christine: Heat Guns vs Hair Dryers

Although you can use a heat gun, you will get better results from a hair dryer. A hair dryer has more power and the nozzle attachment will help to achieve a petal shape. The air from a heat gun is more concentrated and doesn't blow around as forcefully as the air from a hair dryer does. Blown air is what pushes the paint around the panel to create the ribbons and cells associated with Dutch Pour painting.

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Step 9 - Soften Harsh Lines

Blow with your mouth (or through a straw) on to soften harsh lines around the black center or on any other areas that need to be tidied up. Blowing out harsh lines will soften them and create cells. A hair dryer is too intense here and not as precise for fine detail work.

Step 10 - Torch A Final Time 

Torch one more time to get rid of air bubbles.  If you find any areas are too white, give them a quick pass with the torch to encourage the paint color below to rise up to the surface. 

Step 11 - Allow The Paint To Dry 

The paint takes about 2 hours to dry so you have some time to play with the composition when doing a Dutch pour. The paint will be dry to the touch in 2-3 days, but won’t be ready to resin for about a month.

Step 12 - Apply A Resin Top Coat Over The Dutch Pour Painting 

Wearing gloves, measure and mix the ArtResin according to the label instructions.

💡 TIP: To determine how much ArtResin you'll need to cover your panel, simply enter the dimensions into our Resin Calculator. The Calculator will let you know how much resin and hardener you'll need and even which kit to buy.

For our 16 x 20" panel, we need 11 oz total, made up of 5.5 oz of resin and 5.5 oz hardener. 






Pour the resin over the center of the piece, guiding it over the entire surface of the painting using a spreading tool. 





You can tape off the edges with painter's tape if you wish to leave them clean, or used your gloved hand to guide the resin over the edges.




Cover with a dust cover (we like using an empty cardboard box or a clean plastic tote) and allow to cure for 24 hours. 

A Resin Art Dutch Pour

In this project, ArtResin will be the pouring medium to which we will add our acrylic paint. This is a much quicker method that takes your piece from the work top to the wall in 24 hours.

Supplies You'll Need:

• 16 x 20 wood panel, painted white with acrylic paint or gesso
• Masking tape
• Stands to prop your panel up (painter’s pyramids or plastic cups)
• Plastic drop sheet to line your work surface
• Liquitex Basics White
• Amsterdam Prussian Blue
• Amsterdam Light Rose
• Pebeo Iridescent Gold
• Plastic shot glasses
• Hairdryer (with the nozzle attachment on)
• ArtResin
• Nitrile gloves
• Measuring Cup
• Mixing Stick
• Spreader
• Torch
• Dust Cover

 

Step 1 - Choose Your Palette

Choose colors that blend well together and won’t get muddy when they meet.
Christine suggest using 3-4 colors plus white. 

Step 2 - Prepare The ArtResin

Wearing gloves, measure and mix the ArtResin according to the label instructions. We prepared 11 oz to cover the panel, plus an extra ounce for each paint color.

Step 3 - Tint The Resin

Portion out the resin into plastic cups, add your paint and mix. We used shot glasses for the accent colors and blended the white in the mixing container.
💡TIP: Do not exceed 6% of the the total volume of resin.  For example, our 1 oz shot glasses are equal to 30 ml, so we were careful not to add more than 2ml of paint. 

Step 4 - Pour A White Resin Base Over The Panel

Pour a base of white tinted resin over the entire surface of the panel. Pour a generous amount, but be sure to keep some white back for touch ups.

Torch to release bubbles.

Step 5 - Create Your Design

Starting with pink, lay the tinted resin across the panel. Laying the resin down in an S pattern will give your design some shape.
 


Apply the gold tinted resin in a similar S shape beside the pink, overlapping at points.

Next, apply the blue tint in a similar fashion, ensuring you overlap at some points and leave some areas where the colors are pure. 

Step 6 - Apply A Little More White

Apply a little more white on either side of your pattern. The extra white resin will encourage the tinted resin to flow with ease.




Torch out bubbles one more time.

Step 7 - Blow The Paint With The Hair Dryer

Using the hairdryer, upside down, on an angle and with the nozzle attachment on, blow the tinted resin in fluid strokes to spread it out across the board.





Cells will occur, but they make take a little more time to develop with the resin.

Step 8 - Torch, Cover And Wait

Torch out bubbles, remove dust particles with the toothpick and allow to cure for 24 hours.





There you have it - 2 different Dutch Pour techniques to create a piece of resin art of your own!

We hope you learned something from this tutorial, but if you have any questions or comments, please leave them below.

If you'd like to see more of Christine's work:
visit her website: www.colourfitz.ca
follow her on Instagram: @colour_fitz

Thanks for watching!

ArtResin:  Made For Artists, By Artists.

Congratulations to artist Sophie Blume, our latest Instagram winner! Sophie is an alcohol ink artist from Austin, Texas who always loved art but didn't believe she had the skills to create it herself.

In 2020, at the beginning of quarantine, a book changed everything for her: "I read a book about mindset and how the best athletes, students, and artists are great because they practice a lot. Not because they are natural talents. Since I had so much time on my hands I gave it a shot and this was the start of my artistic journey!"

Your artwork may require a thicker layer of resin if, for example, you're pouring into a mold, pouring over areas of high relief or embedding objects into resin. ArtResin epoxy resin was designed to be poured in thin layers as a surface coating. If you pour thicker than the recommended 1/8", bubbles may not be able to escape and you could end up with bubbles in your cured resin.

So how do you get a thick coat and avoid unwanted bubbles? There are a few approaches you can take:

• The Full Cure Method: layering after 24 hours
• The Partial Cure Method: layering after 3-5 hours
• The Water Bath Method: warming the resin to lower the viscosity

We're going to walk you through each method, what type of artwork they're suited for and tips to get you the best results.

Let’s get started.

Waiting 24 Hours Between Resin Layers

This method is works well if you'd like to add embellishments between resin layers such as paint, paper, or vinyl cut outs, or if you simply want to build up a thicker coat. It takes a little more time, but provides a very tight bond between layers.  

Allow your first layer of resin to cure for at least 24 hours until it has cured solid. The surface should no longer feel sticky or soft at this point - it should feel perfectly smooth and dry to the touch. At this point, you can add paint, gold leaf, vinyl cut outs or whatever art you'd like to add in between layers. 

In order for the next layer to adhere, you'll need to rough up the surface using a coarse sandpaper, such as 80 grit. This step is crucial - sanding will create some tooth for the new resin layer to adhere and will ensure that the two layers bond together. If you skip sanding, you run the risk of the two layers eventually delaminating or separating because they’ve got nothing holding them together. Don’t worry - once you pour on your fresh resin layer, the sanding marks will get filled in with resin and will disappear like magic in front of your eyes.

💡 TIP: If you've painted in between layers, simply sand around the paint:  the paint itself will provide some tooth, but make sure you rough up every other area that needs it.

⚠️ IMPORTANT: Always wear a mask when sanding to avoid breathing in resin particles.




Next, remove the sanding dust from your piece, then wipe the surface with a damp paper towel to remove any residue. Repeat this as often as necessary until the surface feels clean and smooth. Allow to dry thoroughly before applying the next layer of resin.




Carefully measure and mix a fresh batch of ArtResin and pour a ⅛’ layer as normal over the sanded surface. Once the scratch marks are filled in with resin, you’ll never know your piece was sanded.





Allow the resin to cure for 24 hours. Repeat these steps as many times as you wish until you reach the thickness you want, as long as you pour in ⅛” increments.

Waiting 3-5 Hours Between Resin Layers

The 3-5 hour method is the perfect option when time is an issue or if you want to embed pieces into the resin, like flowers or gold leaf pieces or glitter that might otherwise sink to the bottom of liquid resin. This method can also help reduce the seams in between layers that may be visible from the edges of your piece. The 3-5 hour method is a quicker option that still gives great results. 

After you’ve applied your first coat of ArtResin, wait about 3-5 hours until the resin has thickened up to a tacky, gel like state. In place of sanding, that tackiness is going to provide tooth for the new layer to grab onto. In fact, the two layers will cure simultaneously which is going to create a nice strong bond.
💡TIP:  If your resin room is warm, you may be able to pour your next coat of ArtResin at the 2-3 hour mark.  

💡 TIP: ArtResin guest artist Sue Board suggests leaving a little cup of resin beside your piece so you can monitor the cure without disturbing your artwork.




Once the resin has set up, you can add inclusions, if you've got them. In fact, the stickiness of the resin will hold the inclusions in place and prevent them from floating away when you pour your next coat.




Carefully measure and mix a fresh batch of ArtResin according to the instructions, and pour a fresh ⅛” layer.  Allow it to cure completely or, if you want to add more layers, cure it to the 3-5 hour mark and repeat the steps.



So really, it’s up to you:  you can use the 24 hour or the 3-5 hour method, and you can add as many layers of ArtResin as you wish, as long as you pour ⅛" at a time to allow the bubbles to escape.

Warming The Resin In A Water Bath

The final way of getting a thick layer of resin is warming the capped bottles in a warm water bath. In fact, the water bath method allows you to pour a little thicker than 1/8".

Warming the resin actually lowers the viscosity. It thins the resin out, resulting in far less bubbles in your mixture and allowing you to pour a little thicker with a crystal clear cure.
💡 TIP: Thin resin is much harder to control so this method is best for pouring into a contained space like a mold or lipped panel rather than spreading over a piece of artwork. 

A resin water bath is pretty straightforward, but just keep the following tips in mind:

• You don’t need to use boiling water: warm to hot water like you’d use for a baby’s bath works just fine.

• Warm the bottles before you measure and mix:  heat accelerates curing so if you warm up the resin after you’ve mixed it, it’s likely to cure instantly.

You don’t want any water getting mixed in with the resin: keep the lids on the bottles, don’t submerge them and dry them off thoroughly before you open them.
⚠️ If water gets mixed in with the resin or hardener, it will cause a cloudy cure.

The time the bottles spend in the water bath depends on a few factors: how cold your resin is, the size of the resin bottles and how warm your water is. Here at ArtResin, we usually allow a 32 oz kit to sit for about 15 minutes in warm water.

Then, measure as usual and mix slowly so you don’t introduce any more bubbles than you need to.



Pour the resin in slowly.



Remove the bubbles: if you're pouring into a lipped panel, use a torch. If you're pouring into a silicone mold, remove bubbles with a heat gun. Try not to pour much more than 1/4" - if you're very careful, you can pour up to 1/2" but be aware, a thicker pour increases the risk of bubbles.

Read how to remove bubbles with a torch!

⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: Heat accelerates curing, which means you'll lose about 10 minutes from ArtResin’s 45 minute working time. Ensure you have your tools and artwork prepped and pour the resin as soon as you’ve finished mixing. If warm resin sits on your work surface, it may cure prematurely right in the cup.

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A NOTE ABOUT CURE TIME:

Keep in mind that ArtResin's cure time of 24 hours until dry to the touch and 72 hours for a full cure is based on a 1/8" layer, so a thicker pour will take longer to cure. A coaster, for example, could take up to a couple of weeks for a full cure. Ensure you give your piece enough time to fully cure.
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So there you have it! 3 different and easy ways to get a thicker coat of ArtResin. To recap:

• Use the water bath method if you want to pour a thicker layer into molds.
• Use the 3-5 or 24 hour methods for pouring multiple ⅛” layers on artwork. 
• Remember, if the resin is cured, you’ll need to sand first before you pour a fresh layer on top. 

We hope you found this helpful.
Please leave any questions in the comments below!

ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.

It's important that the products you use to make homemade silicone molds are safe. That's why we made sure our silicone Mold Making Material is non-toxic, has no VOCs, no BPA and is food safe once cured. This means you can safely use Mold Making Material to create fun, personalized molds for chocolate, ice, candy, fondant, butter, gummy bears, and more!

What Is Mold Making Material?

Mold Making Material is a two-part platinum silicone kit for making custom molds. It is safe for use with food or non-food materials.

• Odorless. Non-toxic. Food safe once cured.
• Creates a strong, smooth mold that stretches without tearing.
• Easy to use. Fast curing.
• A thin viscosity to reproduce objects with even the finest surface details.
• Excellent release properties.
• Reusable. Properly cured molds will create hundreds of castings without deteriorating.
  

 

What is Mold Making Material made of?

Mold Making Material is made of high quality, US made, platinum silicone, a pure, food grade material that contains no fillers or by-products. Platinum silicone is odorless, non-toxic, and has no VOCs or BPA. Once cured, it’s 100% safe to use for molds as it will not contaminate food that comes into contact with it.

How do I know these silicone molds are food safe?

A 3rd party lab conducted extraction tests on Mold Making Material and found that it passed the requirements of FDA 21 CFR 177.2600: this is part of the FDA’s Code Of Federal Regulations that defines requirements for rubber articles intended for repeated contact with food items.

Mold Making Material meets the FDA’s criteria for food contact substances when accurately measured, thoroughly mixed, and fully cured. It may be used in repeat contact with food items, both water and fat based. 

How do you make a homemade mold out of silicone?

Mold Making Material allows you to create custom molds for shaping food items. The product comes in two parts that, when mixed together, cure from a liquid silicone to a flexible, high strength rubber, perfect for DIY molds.

Simply mix equal amounts (by volume) of Part A and Part B until the color is one, consistent, blue hue.

Mold Making Material has a working time of 45 minutes. Pour the mixed product into a plastic or plastic lined container containing the 3D object(s) you’d like to reproduce. Pour slowly and cover the object. Let the silicone cure for 3 hours at room temperature until it’s no longer sticky to the touch.

💡 TIP: Tack down objects with a bit of glue to help them stand straight or prevent them from shifting once you pour in the Mold Making Material.






Carefully remove the cured silicone from the box mold. Using a utility knife, cut an opening at the bottom of the mold and carefully wiggle the object(s) out. Wash the silicone mold cavity in warm, soapy water using a mild dish soap and a soft sponge. Rinse and allow to dry.






Congratulations! You’re now ready to make replicas of your object!

What kind of food safe silicone molds can I make?

You can use Mold Making Material to create molds for food including:

• Butter
• Candy
• Cake Decorations
• Cheese
• Chocolate
• Fondant
• Frozen Liquids
• Gelatin
• Gummy Bears
• Ice
• Ice Cream
• Marzipan
• Pâté
• Rice
• Royal Icing

 

How To Mold Hard Candy:

Step 1: Prepare the candy syrup

Using the recipe of your choice, prepare a hard candy syrup. Once the syrup has reached the hard ball stage on a candy thermometer and you've added the flavoring and color of your choice, pour the contents into a silicone beaker. 


Step 2: Pour into the mold

Ensure the silicone molds have been cleaned and allowed to air dry. Working quickly, pour the liquid candy into each of the mold's cavities until full. Allow the candy to harden; depending on how thick you pour, this can take anywhere from 15 minutes to an hour. 

💡 TIP: A silicone beaker not only allows you to safely handle hot liquids, but its flexibility allows for better control when pouring.

Step 3: Remove the hardened candy

Carefully wiggle out the hardened candy from the silicone mold. Once all the the candies have been removed, wash the molds in warm, soapy water with a soft cloth.  Allow to air dry and store flat until next use. 

How To Mold Chocolate:

Step 1: Melt chocolate

In a double boiler or in the microwave, melt chocolate or meltable candy making chocolate.  Pour into a silicone beaker.


Step 2: Pour melted chocolate into the silicone mold

Pour into each cavity of the mold, being careful not to overfill. If desired, use a plastic knife to smooth out the back. Allow to harden in a cool place.

Step 3: Remove hardened chocolate from silicone mold

Carefully wiggle the hardened chocolate shapes from the silicone mold. Once removed, wash the molds in warm, soapy water with a soft cloth. Allow to air dry and store flat until next use. 

💡 TIP: If you prefer the chocolates with a glossy finish, the object you're casting needs to have a glossy finish. If the item you want to copy has a matte finish, spray it with a gloss clear coat prior to pouring the silicone. 

 

How To Mold Fondant:

Step 1: Prepare the fondant

Wearing disposable gloves, knead a small amount of store bought fondant until it is soft and pliable.  




Step 2: Place fondant into the mold.

Rip off small pieces of fondant and place into the mold, smoothing each piece down as you go.  Once the mold is filled, gently press on the back of the fondant to ensure to ensure it fills every part of the mold cavity. Chill in the fridge or freezer for easy release.




Step 3: Release the fondant

Once the fondant has chilled, carefully remove it from the mold. Use a small blade to trim away the excess. Wash the molds in warm, soapy water with a soft cloth.  Air dry thoroughly and store flat until next use.

How To Mold Gummies:

Step 1: Prepare the gummy mixture

Using the recipe of your choice, prepare the gummy mixture and pour the contents into a silicone beaker. 


Step 2: Pour into the mold

Ensure the silicone molds have been cleaned and allowed to air dry. Working quickly, pour the gummy mixture into each of the mold's cavities until full. Place the mold into the fridge and chill until the gummies have set.

💡 TIP: A silicone beaker not only allows you to safely handle hot liquids, but its flexibility allows for better control when pouring.




Step 3: Release the gummies from the mold

Once the gummies have set up, carefully wiggle them, pulling gently until they release from the mold. Once the gummies have been removed, wash the molds in warm, soapy water with a soft cloth. Allow to air dry and store flat until next use. 

How To Mold Ice:

Step 1: Fill the mold

Ensure the silicone molds have been cleaned and allowed to air dry.  Fill each cavity with water.

Step 2: Freeze & remove

Place in the freezer until the water has turned to ice. Working quickly, carefully wiggle each ice cube out of the mold.

💡TIP: Create fun ice cubes that won't dilute your drinks by using juice, ice tea, lemonade, cold coffee, Kool-Aid, Gatorade or other colorful beverages.

What is the temperature range of your silicone molds?

The silicone molds are best used at room temperature, but also be used to shape both hot and cold food items.  The molds can be placed in the fridge or freezer to create personalized cold and frozen items and can withstand temperatures of up to 400F to create gummies and hard candies. Do not expose the silicone mold to temperatures or food casting materials over 400F/200C.

⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: Mold Making Material is intended for molding only. We do not recommend using Mold Making Material for cooking or baking. 

 

How do you clean food safe silicone molds?

Molds made from Mold Making Material are easy to clean and maintain. Once you’ve demolded your food shapes, simply wash your silicone mold in warm, soapy water, using a mild dish soap and a soft sponge to remove any traces of food. Do not place your silicone mold in the dishwasher. Allow the mold to air dry.
⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: Avoid harsh cleaners or scrubbing with a scouring pad/dish brush to avoid damaging the interior of the mold. Use a soft cloth or sponge and a mild dish soap in warm water.

 

How should I store my silicone molds? 

Properly cared for molds should last for years, depending on maintenance and frequency of use. Before storing, always clean your molds to remove any traces of food or non-food material you’ve cast with and allow the mold to air dry. Store your molds flat, in a single layer and ideally in a container to help maintain their shape and integrity.
⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: Do not stack objects on top of your molds to avoid warping. 


What other materials can you use in silicone molds? 

In addition to food, Mold Making Material is ideal for casting other moldable materials such as epoxy resin, cement, plaster, polyurethane, wax, soap, potters clay, polymer clay, play dough and paper mâché  to make prototypes, art projects, architectural details, statues, figurines, candles and more!

⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: We cannot guarantee the food safety of molds that have been used with non-food materials. Once you’ve used non-food materials in a mold, do not use that same mold for food. Molds designated for use with food should ONLY be used for food. 

Please leave any questions or comments below and for more information, see our blog How To Use Mold Making Material. 


ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.

Over the years, ArtResin has undergone numerous in-depth safety evaluations and environmental tests. We wanted to ensure that the product was safe for use at home or in the art studio, not only so our customers could feel confident, but because we use ArtResin too.

Dave, one of the founders of ArtResin, would like to discuss some of these certifications and past tests with you.

1) Is ArtResin Really Safe?

Yes, ArtResin is safe for home use when used as directed. One of the main criteria when developing our product was to make sure there were no chemicals released that could be harmful.  

We had ArtResin tested at third party labs for leached chemicals using various analytical methods including Gas Chromatography and Mass Spectrometry. These tests involved placing cured ArtResin in hot water and solvents and allowing it to soak. The extracted liquid was then burned off and the fumes tested to ascertain the chemical composition.

ArtResin passed 13 different migration and food safety tests, determining that it is fully inert when cured. In other words, no chemical contamination will occur when food comes into contact with cured ArtResin. These tests were in compliance with regulations from the United States, Canada, Great Britain, Australia and the European Union. For more information, please see our blog ArtResin Passes Food Safety Tests.

⚠️ PLEASE NOTE:   Be aware that the safety designations may become compromised with the addition of products into the ArtResin mixture. All of the tests used ArtResin prepared according to label instructions; that is, without colorants or additives, mixed in equal parts by volume, torched to release bubbles and allowed to fully cure for 72 hours. If you wish to add colorant and are concerned about food safety, we suggest applying a layer of clear, non-tinted ArtResin as a final top coat. 

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A Note About Odor:

ArtResin has a very low odor, but it's important to note that what you are smelling is simply an odor and not fumes. In fact, ArtResin produces no fumes or VOCs so any scent you may detect is not an indication of potential danger. However, when it comes to odor, we all have different levels of tolerance. Should you find the odor bothersome when using ArtResin, wear a respirator to make your experience more comfortable. 

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2) Where Is ArtResin Made?

Unlike many other resin companies, we manufacture our own epoxy resin at our facility in Dallas, Texas. We prepare ArtResin to the highest quality and safety standards to protect both our employees and our product. Our facility is certified to be environmentally safe: the raw materials are not flammable or hazardous and are safely stored and handled. We have a containment system in place and our manufacturing process does not require water, so there is no risk of raw materials entering the water system.

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A Note About Materials:

Our approach to safety starts with the raw materials. ArtResin is a pure formula made from the highest quality ingredients. There are no solvents or cheap diluents in our formula that are commonly used in other epoxy resin brands to stretch the materials. As a result, ArtResin is a complete formula, meaning that all the ingredients in the resin and the hardener react with each other, leaving nothing behind that can become airborne and breathed in. For more information, see our blog How Is ArtResin Non-Toxic?_________________________________________________________________________

3) How Do I Know ArtResin Is Safe To Use At Home?

The American Society for Testing and Materials (ASTM) has recognized that ArtResin meets safety standard D-4236, confirming that our product is properly labeled and that the claims on our label are accurate and approved by a board certified toxicologist. This is why our label indicates that ArtResin “Conforms to ASTM D-4236” and is “safe for use at home when used as directed".

We also made sure that ArtResin's packaging has clear instructions on how to use the product safely and correctly, guidance on personal protective equipment as well as information on potential allergen risks.

ArtResin also carries the manufacture date on our labels for quality control. The manufacture date tells us exactly when the product was produced and communicates shelf life to the consumer (6 months opened and 1 year unopened from the date of manufacture). We also use it to detail the raw ingredients to ensure traceability. This means we can take quick and corrective action should a potential issue arise. We’re happy to report that we’ve never experienced such an issue, but we have a system in place in the event that it does. 

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A Note About Respirators:  

You may have heard that wearing a respirator is necessary when working with epoxy resin: for many resin brands on the market this is true. ArtResin, however, is a clean system, meaning you do not need to use a respirator when using ArtResin as directed and in a well-ventilated area. In fact, a 3rd party toxicologist found ArtResin to conform to ASTM D-4236 with no component of its make-up having been found to be harmful, toxic, hazardous or dangerous when used as directed.  Of course, out of an abundance of caution, the choice is always yours to wear a respirator if you wish. You can read more about our ASTM D-4236 certification in our blog ArtResin Is Safe For Home Use.

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4) How Is ArtResin Safe To Ship?

ArtResin is considered non-hazardous for transport which means we can ship our product to you in regular mail or by air. It’s considered non-flammable in its liquid state and non-corrosive. In fact, in one of our third-party tests, liquid ArtResin was poured on a simulated skin model (in other words, ArtResin is not tested on animals) and was found not to hurt the skin model after over 60 minutes of contact. For more information, see our Safety Data Sheet.

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A Note About ArtResin's SDS:

From day one we wanted to make ArtResin's Safety Data Sheet (SDS) transparent and accessible so you can feel confident about its safety. Our SDS outlines precautionary statements such as personal protective measures when using ArtResin, potential skin or eye irritation and first aid procedures. It advises on the chemical properties of the ingredients, as well as safe storage, handling, transport and disposal considerations. It also includes the National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) and the Hazardous Materials Identification System (HMIS) diamonds. These rating systems indicate health, flammability, reactivity, and physical hazards on a scale from 0 (no hazard) to 4 (high hazard). HMIS also indicates what personal protection equipment should be used when working with ArtResin.

NFPA Rating:

• Health: 1 indicates that the product is not considered toxic. It could cause irritation but only minor residual injury, even if no treatment is given.
• Flammability: 1 indicates that the product requires considerable preheating before ignition can occur.
• Instability: 0 indicates that the product is normally stable, even under fire conditions, is non-explosive and will not react with water.
• Specific Hazards: this denotes that the product has no specific hazards.
  
  

HMIS® Rating:

• Health: 1 indicates that irritation or minor reversible injury is possible.
• Flammability: 1 indicates that the product requires considerable preheating before ignition can occur.
• Physical Hazard: 0 indicates that the product is normally stable, even under fire conditions, is non-explosive and will not react with water.
• Personal Protection Index: C represents that safety glasses, gloves and an apron should be used when working with the product.

5) ArtResin Passed Prop 65

We are happy to report that ArtResin passed the strict testing necessary to comply with Proposition 65, the act that provides warnings to California residents about toxic chemical exposure. Prop 65 is widely considered to be one of the most extensive lists of chemicals known to be carcinogens or cause birth defects and reproductive harm.

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A Note About Allergies:

It’s possible to be allergic (or to become allergic) to an ingredient that is safe for the rest of the population. This is also true for epoxy resin. Approximately 2% of epoxy resin users will demonstrate allergic symptoms to the basic chemical components of epoxy resin. This means that an epoxy allergy is not specific to a particular brand: If you're allergic to one epoxy resin, you will be allergic to all epoxy resins. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to tell whether someone will have an epoxy allergy until symptoms present themselves. Allergic symptom(s) typically present as temporary skin inflammation and/or swelling upon exposure.

⚠️ PLEASE NOTE: In the event of these symptoms, regardless of when reactions occur or their severity, allergy sufferers should discontinue use of ALL epoxy resins indefinitely in order to protect themselves.

It's also important to note that allergic reaction is not the same as the serious health complications, including chronic respiratory issues, that may result from exposure to epoxy that contains VOCs/fumes, solvents or non-reactive diluents. For more information on epoxy resin allergies, please see our blog Can You Be Allergic To Epoxy Resin?

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We believe it's important for consumers to determine if a product is safe before they make a purchase. We are confident that ArtResin is a product that is easy to use, beautiful, and above all else, safe. We hope that all of this information gives you peace of mind to focus on your creativity.

For more information, please check out our blogs on ArtResin's Safety, our Food Safety Rating, and How to use ArtResin Safely. If you have any other questions, feel free to comment below or contact our customer service department at support@artresin.com.

ArtResin:  Made For Artists, By Artists.

Resin geode art is made by placing crushed glass and crystals alongside tinted resin to recreate the look of natural rock formations. Using pigments and mica powder, you can create resin geodes in any color palette you wish, adding decorative elements like glitter and metallic paint for a luxurious finish. 

Artist Shilpi Patel walks us through her step-by-step process for creating a custom piece of resin geode art. If color and sparkle are your thing, you're going to love learning how to create resin geodes! Once you learn the basics, there's no limit to what resin geode art designs you can create for coasters, wall art, sculptures, table tops and more. 

Let's get started!

 

 

What Supplies Do You Need To Make a Resin Geode?

• 18" x 18" wood panel painted white 
• Clear fireglass in 1/4" pieces or smaller. You can find these online or in store where they supplies for outdoor fire tables are told.
• Crushed glass in gold and silver (available at craft stores). 
• ResinTint and/or Mica powder in several shades of white, plus 1-2 accent colors
• Gold glitter (fine)
• Krylon gold metallic paint marker
• Posca white acrylic paint pen
• A 2" wide paint brush to move the crystals into place
• ArtResin epoxy resin 
• Several pairs of nitrile gloves
• A mixing cup with easy to read measurement lines 
• Stir stick
• Craft sticks and small plastic cups (enough for each color)
• a small plastic zip lock bag
• Plastic stands
• Painter's tape
• A level
• A handheld torch like our Artist's Torch
• A clean, empty plastic tote to protect your piece while it dries

 

Steps For Making a Resin Geode

The following step-by-step instructions will explain how to create your own resin art geodes:

Step 1: Paint the Wood Panel

Paint the wood panel white. Once dry, tape off the back with painter's tape. The tape will catch the resin drips and provide a nice clean finish to the underside of your panel. 

Place the panel on stands up and off of the work surface. Using a level, ensure the panels are perfectly horizontal. This is an important step: if the panels are not level, the resin will run off one side as it cures and ruin the geode pattern you’ve created. 

Step 2: Create a Design

Create a design using the crystals. Wearing gloves to protect your hands, start with your largest crystals and place them on the panel. You'll be building the majority of your geode design using these, so feel free to use a lot of them. Take your time laying out the crystal pattern. Play around with the shape until you’re happy with what you have in front of you.

💡 TIP: Start by choosing a symmetrical or an abstract pattern. If you're not sure what you like, use reference photos of natural geode formations to help you choose both pattern and color palette.





Next, use the gold toned fire glass to outline the shape you’ve made with the clear crystals. 
💡 TIP: You can use just one type of crystal, but a mixture of sizes and tones gives texture and dimension to your piece.

Use the paintbrush to create shapes, curves or to make slight adjustments, pushing the rocks in or away, and adding more crystals as necessary. Remember that crystals come in all shapes and sizes: if there are some big pieces you don’t like, feel free to move them or replace them.

💡 Shilpi's Tip: "The beauty of geode art is that each piece is different. You’ll never find a geode [in nature] that’s the same as another geode. In artwork, that takes the pressure off because it doesn’t need to be perfect. It can be whatever you want it to be."

Step 3: Mix A Small Batch Of Resin

Mix a small batch of resin to adhere the crystals to the panel. You'll be drizzling the resin over the crystal pattern so you only need to prepare a small amount - 50 ml total should do. 

Starting in one corner, drizzle a small amount of resin over the crystal pattern, so that every crystal has exposure to a tiny bit of resin. Try to pour in one fluid, constant motion from one corner to the other without stopping and starting and being careful not to flood the crystals. You can pour slightly more near the perimeter of your design: this will create a barrier to prevent tinted resin from seeping underneath the crystals and changing their look. 
💡 TIP: If you're using real crystals or a large quartz piece, don't pour the resin on top. Instead, place a small amount of resin underneath the crystal(s) to adhere them to the panel. 





If the drizzled resin starts to seep out from under the glass crystals, you can use a gloved finger to remove the excess. This is an important step to prevent excess resin from spreading out and diluting the first layer of tinted resin.

Step 4: Prepare your Tinted Resin

Prepare your tinted resin. If you have leftover resin from drizzling, you can use it for your first layer, to be applied closest to the glass crystals. This first shade is a transition between the crystals and the rest of the piece and should follow the tone of the crystals it's poured next to. For example, use a gold tinted resin next to gold glass, a white resin next to clear glass, or a silver resin next to silver glass. 




Work slowly and precisely, pour a thin line of tinted resin against the top edges of the crystals and the panel. This first layer has the added bonus of covering up any edges of the crystal pattern that aren't perfect. 




Carry the design over the sides of the panel to give the piece a complete look. You can use leftover resin from your cup to drizzle down the sides or you can use a craft stick to pick up the excess resin that has pooled underneath. Of course, if you prefer a clean look, you can tape off the sides of your piece before you start.

Step 5: Mix the Resin For The Main Body

Now you’re ready to mix the resin for the main body of the geode piece. Shilpi advises choosing 2-3 shades of white and 1-2 pops of color that will complement the first layer of resin you've already applied. 

Shilpi's chose to use:

• gold
• sparkly white
• shimmery white
• opaque white
• navy blue
• iridescent turquoise green

Step 6: Pour Resin Mix

Once the resin tints have been mixed, you're ready to pour! If you prefer a more symmetrical look to your geode piece, you can pour each resin color right next to eachother.  If you prefer a more modern spin, you can create an abstract look with your lines, breaking them off in a few branches.
💡 TIP:  Before you start, you may need to touch up the first line you laid down if the resin has spread or become diluted, or if the initial color was too transparent.




Starting with the white shimmered resin first, pour a thin line right up against the gold. Take your time, pouring slowly in one continuous pour. Going too fast will cause the gold and white to blend. This will create cells and gold lines in the white. 




Next, pour the white sparkly resin in a thin, continuous line around the interior edges of the crystals, hitting both the crystals and the panel. Repeat if you've find you missed any areas or left gaps. 





With the same sparkly white, pour a thin layer along the outline of the shimmery white in one continuous pour. Don’t worry if you’ve left a little space in between the 2 layers; as the resin self-levels, it will fill in the gap or you can use a popsicle stick to fill it in. 




Next, move on to the opaque white, pouring in a thin, continuous line against the sparkly white areas.

While you're pouring, be aware of the ratio between the white and the gold: if you find the white is diluting the gold, use a craft stick to drizzle a little more gold for definition. 




Once you've assessed your piece and decided where you'd like to see some pops of color, you can go in with the navy resin. Leave a little gap as you pour (1/2 cm) or the navy will overpower the white. The two colors will fill in and sit side by side, preventing cells from forming or the colors from blending.



Next, pour the turquoise green against the blue, again leaving a small gap. 
If you find you like the look of space between the navy and turquoise, you can fill it in with white; or, simply allow the two colors to fill it in as they level out. 





At this point, fill in any spaces that need it. Try to use up the color that you have the most of left in your cups.

💡Shilpi's Tip: Resin geode art is a layering process: the first layer is the base to establish the color palette. At any point, you can adjust your piece by adding more crystals or introducing another color. If you're not happy with what you've poured, use the side of a craft stick to scrape the resin off and re-pour. When we move onto the 2nd day, we'll be adding glitter, fine lines and more crystals, so you'll have ample opportunity to change areas you may not be fond of.

Step 7: Torch Out Any Bubbles

Torch out any bubbles and check for dust with a toothpick. Place a dust cover on top and allow the resin to cure overnight.

Step 8: Remove Any Loose Stones

24 hours later, once the resin has dried, turn the piece over to remove any loose stones that did not adhere the day before. If you have a large patch of crystals that did not adhere, you can add them back in and drizzle on more resin at this point.

Step 9: Add Your Embellishments

Next, add your embellishments, including paint marker lines, glitter and fine crushed glass additions. If you love the piece the way it is, feel free to leave it, but adding some details will embellish what you’ve already created or cover up areas you think can be improved. 




Start first by drawing in acrylic paint marker lines; it's a very subtle detail but adds a great deal of dimension. Shilpi suggests starting with the color that you have the majority of in your piece: in this case, she will be starting with white.




Use a white paint pen to draw in white lines along the white shimmer portions of resin where you think it needs a little bit of interest or a touch up. Go slowly, trying not to stop to avoid a disjointed line. Remember to carry the line through down the edges as well.





If you have areas where the resin has created cells, you can draw a circle around them to turn them into features. Or, if you don’t like them, you can cover them in crushed glass or glitter, or pour more resin to cover them up. 

Step 10: Create a Guideline

Next, we're going to create a guideline for our glitter embellishment using the gold paint pen. This is a good opportunity to embellish an area you'd like to highlight or cover up an area you don't like. The line doesn't need to be straight or perfect since it will be covered up with glitter.  Start with less and add more as needed. 

Step 11: Add Glitter

Add a generous amount of glitter to a small batch of resin (approximately 2 oz) to make a thick glitter paste.  It helps to let the resin sit for approximately 20 minutes to thicken up: this will give you far more control and help prevent the resin from spreading when you're applying the glitter resin to the piece.




Scrape the resin into a ziploc bag placed into a plastic cup, similar to how you would fill a cake decorating bag.




Snip a very small hole in the corner of the ziploc bag so that the resin line is thin and follow the gold guidelines you made earlier with the gold pen. Remember to allow the glitter resin carry down the side. 
💡 TIP: Keep in mind that it's best to start with a thin line: the resin will spread out as it self-levels and your glitter line will get a little thicker.  

Step 12: Look at your Piece

Once you've applied your glitter resin, look at your piece from a different perspective: look at it from a bird's eye view or rotate the orientation to see if there are any areas that need a little highlight. Once you're happy with how it looks, torch any resined areas if need be, cover with a dust cover and allow the piece to cure for 24 hours.

 

Step 13: Enjoy your Resin Geode Art

Admire your completed work!

There you have it!
We hope you learned something new today and that you're inspired to create a resin geode piece of your own!

To see more of Shilpi's geode work, follow her on Instagram: @shilpiscanvas

If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below. 

 

ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.

Congratulations to artist Isabelle Beaubien, our latest Instagram winner! A full time artist based in Montreal, Isabelle creates energetic, colorful, acrylic abstracts that she selectively embellishes with ArtResin. 

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A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

 

Isabelle studied Fine Art at both Concordia University and the University of Quebec in Montreal (UQAM). After receiving her Undergraduate from Concordia, she went on to earn her Master’s degree in Contemporary Art from The Villa Arson in Nice, France. Isabelle says: "I experimented in a lot of media and medium over the years before I found what I am really passionate about. I tried pretty much everything. I spent a few years studying art and got to play with so many different materials, but acrylic painting is where my heart is!"

 

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A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

 
Isabelle is drawn to acrylic paint for its fast dry time, ease of use and versatility. She also loves its rich color and the texture she can create with it: "I always try to push this combination [of color and texture] further and further."
 

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

Isabelle uses ArtResin to add an extra dimension to her vibrant paintings.

"A long time ago, way before ArtResin, I used to buy Varathane which you could find in hardware stores. People would use it for bar tops, table tops and floors. It would look good at the beginning and then become yellow after a while. No need to say, it was toxic as well! Nothing compares to the resin that ArtResin makes.

"At the time, my work was way more minimal and I was using layers of the same color. The resin allowed me to target a part of my work and make it more visible, even with the same color. It made my work a whole in a way. It was the missing link."

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A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

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A post shared by Isabelle Beaubien (@isabelleart1)

Isabelle hopes that her paintings communicate a good energy to the viewer: "My work is so colorful and so powerful and because of the resin somehow quite sculptural. It can create a beautiful impact in a home.

"People tend to wonder how I do my paintings, and often they think it’s a digital piece. So, my technique is kind of a conversation starter and a bit of a secret. I can tell you that I create my own tools and that’s how I get the final result!"
 

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"My creative work is my whole life. That’s what I do day in and day out. It’s always on my mind, I keep thinking of new way to improve, modify or elevate my work. I am so happy and so blessed to be able to live from my passion, it’s a dream come true. Every time I sell a painting, I am as happy as if it was my first one!"
 

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Isabelle sells her paintings all over the world through both art galleries and International Art Fair. For a detailed list of where Isabelle's work can be found, please see her website.