How To Build A Box For Mold Making
When you're making custom molds, a simple box is the most effective way to contain the silicone. The box can be made from objects around the house, like a milk carton or a plastic container, or you can build one out of plexiglass, cardboard or foam core. Whether you use a ready made box or you build your own, make sure your mold box checks off the following:
- it's sturdy
- it's leak proof
- it has a plastic lined interior so that your mold pulls away with ease
- it's big enough to leave enough some space around your object
We're going to show you a couple of quick and easy options using objects from around the house or if you prefer to DIY it, we'll show you how to build your own custom mold.
Let's get started!
Option 1 - Quick and Easy
If you don't have time or the desire to build your own box, you can make an effective mold from items easily found around the house.
Plastic containers are sturdy, re-usable, leak proof, waterproof and allow the mold to easily release once cured. They come in a variety of shapes, sizes and heights to suit any object you wish to mold.
Small cardboard boxes are another great option: they're sturdy and you can easily find a size to fit most objects. The cardboard will absorb the silicone so to prevent this, you'll have to line the interior of the box with a good quality tape like packing tape or sheathing tape (Tuck Tape). This will also help the mold pop out of the box with ease.
Empty milk cartons are an even better option: they're stable and already plastic lined, which means they won't leak or absorb the silicone and will easily pull away once the mold has cured. We used a milk carton to clone our King Tut figure, cutting it about an inch taller than King Tut and using the bottom half.
Option 2 - Build Your Own Box
If you need something sized specifically to fit an object, it’s easy to build a custom box. You've got a couple of options here:
- you can make a single-use box out of cardboard or foam core
- you can use plexiglass for a box that can be used again and again
Cardboard Or Foam Core:
You can build a box out of cardboard or foam core, but you'll want to line the inside of the box with tape as well as the sides and corners. The tape will not only make the box waterproof and leakproof, but allows the finished mold to easily pull away after the silicone has cured.
Plexiglass/Acrylic Sheets:
Building a box out of plexiglass takes a little more time but it's worth the effort since you can re-use the box over and over again.
What You'll Need:
- cutting mat or safe surface to make cuts
- 5 sheets of plexiglass acrylic sheets (leave protective film on)
- ruler
- utility knife
- hot glue gun, tape or silicone gel
- Mold Making Material
- object you wish to make a mold of
Determine the size of box you’ll need to fit the object you want to cast: you'll need to leave about 1/2 - 3/4" of space on each side of your object to capture every detail and to ensure the walls are strong and durable enough to re-use the mold again. Cut your pieces to size with your utility knife. You will need 4 identical sized pieces for the walls and a smaller piece for the base.
The plexiglass sheets are fairly thin so they cut easily and snap off with a little pressure.
Once your pieces are cut to size, remove the protective film.
We're ready to build! Fasten the walls together, securing them with the glue gun. Ensure that the glue is thoroughly applied along the seams: any holes or gaps can allow the silicone to leak out or shift during the curing process.
💡TIP: you can use tape to fasten the walls together, but we recommend a wide, high tack, good quality tape (we like sheathing tape, like Tuck Tape). You want to ensure there are absolutely no gaps where the silicone can seep out. You can also use silicone gel, but we prefer a hot glue gun since the glue dries so quickly.
You can place your object inside the box as you're building to ensure you've left enough room all the way around it. Once all the seams have been glued, set your box aside and allow the glue to dry.
Pouring Your Mold:
Now you're ready to have a little fun with Mold Making Material! In this example, we're going to make our mold using a milk container cut to size. Place a little dab of glue on the base of your object to secure it, and place it down onto the base of the container, ensuring it is centered.
Pour equal amounts of Part A and Part B into your mixing container.
The 2 parts of the Mold Making Material kit are actually 2 different colors (white and dark blue) so you'll know when the mixture is thoroughly mixed when the color becomes a consistent medium blue.
Next, pour the mixture into your container and over your object.
Then, sit back and let the mold cure: 3-4 hours at room temperature will do the trick.
Once time has passed, you can poke the top of the silicone to make sure that it is not sticky anymore before removing it from the box.
Cut the box open and pull the whole mold out before removing the object.
Remove your object from the mold by carefully wiggling it out.
Congratulations, your mold is complete and you are now ready to make exact replicas of your object.
You can use many different substances to fill the mold such as polyurethane and wax but we recommend ArtResin in combination with our line of ResinTints.
So there you have it. The possibilities are truly endless!
Good luck in your mold making adventures. Try not to box yourself in and stay creative.
@trillilife Is Our Newest Instagram Winner!
Trilli is a full time, self-taught artist based in Toronto who developed a technique using glue and glitter to create realistic paintings. Her process is so fascinating to watch unfold that several videos she has been featured in have gone viral.
Trilli's childhood fascination with glitter continued well into her teen years, when she began to experiment and develop the technique used on her art today. She's drawn to using glitter because of the magical feeling the sparkle brings to her work: "I especially love creating memorial portraits with this medium as the movement of the glitter in the light gives a sense of life to the person in a unique way. It's a medium that cannot be copied, duplicated, or truly fully experienced in photo or video - it's an in-person and one-of a kind experience, and created with a technique that was built throughout my whole life."
Trilli says: "I like to inspire others. Creative ideas have always come easily to me, so I like to keep producing work and new diverse ideas, to push the boundaries of what people think is possible to make out of using only glitter! I hope that it inspires others to try something new, different, and keep thinking of unconventional ways to make and share art."
Each piece starts as a sketch on a wood panel to which Trilli applies glue with a fine nozzle tip, before adding her glitter. She starts with the black outline, working her way from dark to light, often blending many different colors together in the wet glue to get the perfect shade. She typically does a base layer first, letting it fully dry, before adding fine details over top, such as highlights, hair strands and eyelashes. When the piece is done and fully dried, the edges are painted and then sealed with ArtResin. She says: "Applying resin to my glitter pieces enhanced the sparkle so much and it's essential for protecting the piece long term so no glitter sheds off. I am applying it as standard practice to all my portrait work since it really gives it the professional finish and makes the results so much more dynamic and vibrant."
Trilli sells her artwork online, mostly through commission work booked through her website or through social media.
To see more of Trilli's work:
Visit her website: trillilife.com
Congratulations on your win, Trilli!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
How To Resin Pointillism Art
We love using wooden art panels here at ArtResin - they allow you to apply your dots directly to the panel and to pour your resin right on top. A panel with a raised lip contains the resin and makes for an easy pour with clean edges.
Join ArtResin's Hannah as she creates an easy and fun pointillism piece with a glossy resin finish that takes her work from good to gorgeous.
Let's get started ....
What You'll Need:
- A 12 x 12" wood art panel painted white
- a selection of markers
- ArtResin epoxy resin
- A pair of nitrile gloves, a stir stick and spreader
- a measuring cup with easy to read measurement lines
- a handheld torch like our Artist's Torch
- toothpicks
- a clean, empty plastic tote to protect your piece while it dries
Steps:
1. Apply your dot pattern directly onto your painted wood panel. You can trace your design and fill it in, like Hannah did, or create your own freehand work - it's up to you!
💡TIP: You can draw your design on paper first, then mount the finished drawing to the panel using an even coat of adhesive. For best results, smooth the drawing out with your hands or a brayer to ensure an even bond to the panel with no air pockets. Seal your artwork using a spray sealant safe for felt tip marker - allow the sealant to dry before applying ArtResin.
Resting your hand on a piece of paper helps keep your artwork clean while you finish off your design.
We're ready to resin!
2. Using our Resin Calculator, simply enter the length and width of your piece to determine how much ArtResin you’ll need. A standard 1/8" coating for a 12" x 12" panel requires 5 oz resin (2.5 oz resin and 2.5 oz hardener).
3. Wearing gloves, measure accurately (by volume) precisely equal amounts of resin and hardener. Stir thoroughly for 3 minutes total, ensuring you scrape the bottom and sides of your mixing container as you go.
💡 TIP: for our very best measuring and mixing tips, read the blog How To Measure And Mix Resin And Hardener.
4. Pour the ArtResin onto the center of your piece and spread it out to the edges. You can tilt the panel to spread it or use a plastic spreading tool. You'll have about 45 minutes of working time before the resin gets too thick to work with.
💡TIP: Read our blog How To Pour And Spread Epoxy Resin for more resin tips and techniques!
5. Remove bubbles with an Artist’s Torch, holding the flame a couple of inches above the resin surface just long enough to pop the bubbles, keeping the torch moving from side to side at all times. After torching, inspect your piece in the light and remove any bits of dust with a toothpick.
💡TIP: if you're nervous about using a torch, don't be! Read our blog with all you need to know about How To Use A Torch On Epoxy Resin.
6. Cover your piece with a plastic tote or a cardboard box (with the flaps cut off). Let it sit for 24 hrs until it’s dry to the touch.
7. Wait 24hrs and then admire your work!
💡TIP: the resin will be dry to the touch at the 24hr mark. You can hang your artwork on the wall at this point, but if you're packing and shipping your artwork, please wait at least 72hrs until the resin has fully cured.
Wasn't that fun?
We hope this tutorial inspired you to create your own pointillism piece.
Post any comments or questions, below - we love to hear from you!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
Mekyas Getahun Is Our Instagram Winner!
Mekyas is a full-time artist based in Las Vegas who creates vibrant, abstract acrylic paintings.
Mekyas prepares his birch wood panels by taping off the sides, then pours his acrylics over top. He allows the pieces to dry for 2-3 weeks before adding a layer of ArtResin. If he feels the piece needs it, he will add an additional resin layer.
Mekyas says that ArtResin has had a profound impact on his art: it has given his paintings a professional finish that has taken his work (and his business) to a whole new level of exposure.
To see more of Mekyas' work:
Visit his Etsy shop
Follow him on Instagram: @art_of_mekyas
Congratulations on your win, Mekyas!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
Top 10 Resin Mistakes Made By Beginners
Working with epoxy resin is simple, as long as you follow a few basic steps.
Although errors can occur from time to time, the good news is that an imperfect cure can almost always be prevented. There are a handful of reasons why mistakes might happen—we're going to go through each one, so you don't have to learn the hard way.
Here are the the top 10 most common mistakes when working with epoxy resin:
- Inaccurate Measuring
- Under-Mixing
- Cold Temperatures
- Not Testing First
- Not Prepping Your Work
- Adding Too Much Colorant
- Letting Resin Sit Too Long After Mixing
- Allowing Dust In Your Resin
- Allowing Bubbles In Your Resin
- Over-Torching
Epoxy resin comes in 2 parts: a resin and a hardener. When these two parts are mixed according to directions, a chemical reaction occurs causing the liquid mixture to cure into a solid. Mistakes occur when this chemical reaction is disrupted or when best practices are not followed. Let's take a closer look at what to be aware of when working with resin to ensure a perfect result.
1. Not Measuring Accurately
Always measure according to the label directions: ArtResin, for example, is a 1:1 epoxy resin, requiring equal amounts of resin and hardener, measured by volume. For best results, use a measuring cup with clearly marked lines. If the measurements are off, the resin and hardener won't be able to react properly. For this reason, never add more hardener thinking it will make the resin cure faster or harder - you'll only end up with a sticky mess.
Never mix resin and hardener from different brands: some resins are formulated to be weighed and some are formulated to be measured by volume. A brand's resin and hardener are specifically formulated to work together and can't be reliably interchanged with product from another brand.
2. Not Mixing Thoroughly
Mix for at least 3 minutes: if the resin and hardener aren't blended well enough, the chemical reaction can't happen and mixture won't cure. Mix thoroughly, for at least 3 minutes. There's no need to whip your resin, however, or you'll end up with far more bubbles than necessary. Instead, stir slowly - you'll get some bubbles, but nothing a torch can't take care of.
Scrape the container when you mix, but not when you pour: it's so important to scrape the sides and the bottom of the container as you stir to ensure that as much product as possible is blended. However, when you're pouring your resin mixture onto your piece, resist the urge to scrape the sides of your mixing container as if you were scraping cake batter out of a bowl. There will almost always be some unmixed resin and hardener stuck to the sides and bottom of your container and if you scrape this out, you may end up with soft, sticky patches in your resin finish.
3. Temperature Is Too Cold
Your resin should be slightly warmer than room temperature: for a perfect cure, make sure your resin is at least room temperature. You'll know your resin is too cold when it is thick, hard to work with and has a cloudy appearance caused by thousands of micro bubbles. If your resin is cold, give the bottles a warm water bath (ensure the caps are on) before you measure and mix. In fact, you can get in the habit of doing a warm water bath every time, regardless of whether the bottles feel cold; it makes working with the resin easier in any case. Be aware that higher temperatures promote a faster cure so warming your resin may cut your work time short by about 10 minutes.
Your resin room should be warm and dry: just as resin should be slightly warmer than room temperature, your resin room should be 75-85 F or 24-30 C and should stay stable at that temperature for the first 24 hours of the cure. If the room is too cold or the temperature significantly drops, the resin may harden with surface imperfections or may not harden at all.
4. Not Testing First
When in doubt, test it out: we always recommend doing a test run so you know exactly what to expect. Resin will make colors look darker, as they would when wet: to give you an idea, use a little water over top to see if the color changes. Soft, porous paper, matte photographs and fabric can absorb resin so it's always best to test first on a scrap piece. You may need to apply a sealant coat (or several) prior to resining.
Test colorants for compatibility: when added to resin, some colorants (particularly some types of acrylic paint) can actually trigger the resin to cure prematurely so we always suggest testing a small amount first to ensure there is no reaction. Better still, use a colorant that is designed specifically for use with resin like our ArtResin ResinTint.
5. Not Prepping Before You Resin
Prep your artwork: ensure your piece is dry and free of dust. A large stretched canvas should be reinforced with cardboard at the back to provide strength and to prevent the canvas from sagging under the weight of the resin. Prints or photos should be mounted evenly to their substrate - we like using spray glue for even coverage and rolling a brayer over top to ensure a good bond with no air pockets.
Seal your work if necessary: if your artwork involves charcoal, pastel, soft paper or anything else that may bleed or absorb wet resin, seal your piece with a sealant appropriate for your artwork. Similarly, organic materials such as wood and paper can release trapped air into the resin (in the form of bubbles) and may also benefit from a sealant.
Prop up, level and tape: prop your piece up and off your work surface with plastic stands to prevent it sticking to your work surface. Use a level to ensure your piece is perfectly horizontal for an even resin coat. If you plan to resin the sides of your artwork, tape off the bottom with painter's tape to catch any drips.
Prep your work surface: protect your work surface with a plastic sheet, line the floor with drop cloths and ensure your work space is clear of any dust or debris. Have your tools lined up and ready to go to avoid losing precious work time.
6. Adding Too Much Colorant
Too much colorant can disrupt the resin cure: whether you use a liquid or powder colorant, adding too much will prevent your resin from curing. A general rule of thumb is to use 6% to the total combined volume of resin and hardener. For example, 50ml resin + 50 ml hardener = 100 ml total requires no more than 6 ml of colorant. You generally don't need much colorant so always start with less, and add more if necessary.
7. Letting Resin Sit Too Long After Mixing
Pour your resin after mixing: after you've mixed your resin and hardener, you may notice that the mixture feels warm. This is because the chemical reaction that cures the two parts generates heat. In fact, unless the mixture is spread out over a larger surface area, it will continue to heat up and can even cure prematurely in the cup if allowed to sit too long. Have your workstation, tools and artwork prepped before you start so that you're ready to pour as soon as you've finished mixing your resin.
8. Dust In Your Cured Resin
Use a dust cover: there's nothing worse than checking your piece the next day only to find that dust has cured right into the resin. The best way to protect your resined work from dust while it cures is by placing a cardboard box or a plastic container over top. Before you resin, wipe down your work station, any overhead lights and spritz the air with water in a spray bottle to help reduce dust in the air. Keep your cover ready to go so that once you've finished torching, you don't have to leave your freshly resined piece exposed while you look for one.
9. Bubbles In Your Cured Resin
Use a torch to remove bubbles: a quick pass with a flame torch is the best way to get a clear, glassy resin finish. A torch is far more effective than a heat gun which can blow your resin around and introduce dust into your resin mixture. The only time a heat gun is preferable to a torch is when working with silicone molds as the flame can damage the mold.
Don't pour too thick: if your resin was formulated as a surface coating, like ArtResin, you may find bubbles in your cured piece if you pour it too thick, say in a mold, for example. There are a couple of ways around this, however. You can pour in multiple thin layers, approximately an 1/8" at a time, until you reach the thickness you desire. Or, you can warm your resin in a water bath prior to measuring and mixing - this thins the consistency of the resin, making it easier for bubbles to escape to the surface. Make sure you always stir your resin slowly to avoid introducing more bubbles.
10. Over-Torching
When it comes to torching, less is more: over-torching your resin is possible when the flame is held too closely to the surface or it's held too long in one spot. Over-torching can result in dimples or ripples and can even cause the resin to yellow prematurely. Over-torching is easily prevented: hold the torch a few inches away from the surface so that the flame is just kissing the resin. You'll see those bubbles disappear right away - if you don't, you can move in a tiny bit closer. Keep your torch moving in a back and forth fashion across the entire surface, as if you're ironing clothes.
There you have it! Follow these best practices and you'll have no difficulty using and applying ArtResin to your project.
To recap:
- work in a warm environment
- test & prepare
- measure accurately
- mix thoroughly and scrape as you stir
- don't add too much colorant
- use a torch
- cover your work
To see these best practices in action, watch our simple how-to instruction video to set you up for success when working with ArtResin!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
How Do Beginners Use Resin?
So you want to get started with resin, but you're not sure where to begin?
Maybe you feel intimidated at the thought of using resin. Maybe you've wanted to buy it, but feel overwhelmed by all the options out there.
You might be asking yourself:
What is resin?
What kind of resin should I get?
What resin supplies do I need?
What are some easy resin projects for a beginner?
If this sounds familiar, don't worry. Here at ArtResin, we've got you covered! Resin is surprisingly simple to use, as long as you follow a few basic steps. We've got all the info you need, plus a list of Top 10 Easy Resin Project Ideas to help you get started.
Soon you'll be measuring, mixing and pouring resin like a pro!
Let's answer your questions.
What Is Resin?
When we're talking about resin for art or crafting, we're referring to epoxy resin. Epoxy resin is a clear liquid plastic made of up two parts: resin and hardener. When the resin and hardener are mixed together, a chemical reaction occurs that takes it from a liquid to a hard, shiny solid. 
Resin was used mainly for industrial applications -- that is, until artists discovered that a shiny coat of resin makes color pop, giving paintings and photographs an unparalleled depth and a sleek, modern finish. In recent years, resin art has soared in popularity and is being used to create jewellery, crafts, coasters, flow art, mosaics, charcuterie boards and so much more.
What Kind Of Resin Should I Get?
When you're starting out, you might be tempted to buy the cheapest epoxy resin you can find. The truth is, this is exactly the kind of resin you want to stay away from! Cheap epoxy resins are not designed for art: they're often highly toxic, give off noxious fumes, and will turn yellow in no time, ruining your project and wasting your money. This really is a case where that old saying "You get what you pay for" is true. For your health and for your artwork, it's worth paying extra for a high quality epoxy resin.
This watercolor painting was ruined by cheap epoxy resin.
Why It's Important To Use ArtResin For Your Art:
Easy To Use: There's no complicated weighing or confusing directions here. ArtResin is a 1:1 ratio, measured by volume. In other words, mix together exactly equal amounts of resin and hardener in a measuring cup. Doesn't get easier than that!
Made For Art: ArtResin has a beautiful, thick consistency, which makes it easy to control when you're working with it and allows it to self-level as the resin hardens. This thick consistency is also excellent for color separation in techniques like flow art, preventing the colors from mixing together and looking muddy.
It also has a long working time (about 40 minutes) so you can get your piece just right and a short cure time: you'll be able to handle your pieces after about 24 hours.
Crystal Clear: ArtResin was designed by artists who know exactly what artists want: a crystal clear resin that dries with a gorgeous glossy finish. ArtResin is also formulated with special ingredients to protect against yellowing to keep your art looking as good as the day you created it.
Safe: Protecting your health is the single most important reason you need to buy a resin made especially for art. ArtResin is non-toxic (when used as directed) so it's not bad for your health like other resins. It contains no nasty fumes, solvents or VOCs. It has a low odor and is safe to use at home when used in a well-ventilated area.
💡TIP: For the safety of your health and for artwork that will last, make sure you buy an epoxy resin that's safe for home use and one that is designed specifically for art.
What Resin Supplies Do I Need?
No matter what you're making, there are a few key tools you'll need when working with resin. As your confidence grows and you try more projects, you can start adding tools like colorants, silicone molds, 3D inclusions and more!
Here are the basics you'll need when working with resin:
- ArtResin® epoxy resin
- Mixing Containers
- Gloves, Stir Stick & Spreader
- Plastic Drop Sheet: to protect your work surface
- Level: to ensure your work is perfectly horizontal
- Torch: to get rid of bubbles
- Toothpicks: to fish out bits of dust
- Dust cover: to protect your work while it cures
Optional tools, depending on your project:
- plastic stands: to prop artwork up off of your work surface
- masking tape: for taping off the back of your piece to catch drips
- colorants: use colorants made for resin, like our ArtResin™ ResinTint
- small mixing cups & craft sticks: for mixing small amounts of tinted resin
- heat gun/hair dryer: to gently push your resin around for flow art
- silicone molds: for making coasters, jewellery and more
- alcohol ink: a must for making petri dish art
- inclusions: embellish your work with glitter, beads, shells, gold flake etc
How Do You Mix Resin?
We get it—the idea of using resin can seem intimidating at first, but the steps are actually very easy: measure, mix, pour, spread, torch and wait. No matter what you make, you'll be repeating those steps over and over again. We have a whole blog and video, How To Use Epoxy Resin, that explains each step in detail.
What Are Some Easy Resin Projects For A Beginner?
Feeling inspired to try a resin project? From coating a painting to creating coasters, flow art, trinket dishes and more, there is so much you can do with epoxy resin!
Here are ArtResin's Top 10 Easy Resin Project ideas to help you get started:
We hope you found this informative and that it helped to explain and demystify what resin is all about. Like anything, practice makes perfect but we hope this will give you the encouragement to try a resin project out for yourself! Before you know it, you'll be wondering why you didn't try it sooner.
Questions?
Comments?
Please leave them below!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists
Victoria Pearson is our Instagram Winner!
Victoria is based in Kitsilano, Vancouver, Canada and became a self-taught resin artist over the pandemic quarantine. From jewelry to wall art to functional art, her work swirls with rich layers of turquoise and white, inspired by tropical ocean waves.
Are you a full time artist?
"I currently work full time as a Set Decorator (essentially an interior designer for movie sets) working 60+ hour weeks. Resin became a self taught passion of mine over the quarantine pandemic. The local Vancouver Aquarium was under threat of permanently closing when the pandemic hit and I decided to make ocean inspired art and donate 100% of the proceeds to the aquarium! It was a huge success and, to my surprise, people requested more art be made. I kept going and, after many failed attempts, have slowly created my own style and technique. Art now fills in the time between my work schedule."
What was it about resin that attracted you?
Discovering resin impacted my art in a way that I can now create multiple pieces at the same time. I love how the medium allows each piece to be unique and allows the artist to create not just art, but functional pieces as well like jewelry, service ware and trinket dishes!"
Why do you feel drawn to make art?
I love sparking imagination and that's why I'll often use movie soundtracks or classical music in my Instagram Stories to help the viewer teleport to a tropical or oceanic destination!"
What does your process look like?
To see more of Victoria's work:
Visit her Etsy shop: COCONUTSnWAVES
Follow her on Instagram: @wilderness.n.waves
Congratulations on your win, Victoria!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
How To Copy A Starfish: A Two-Part Mold
Need a little splash of creativity?
Fishing for something new to do?
Why not take a memory from a past vacation and put your own creative spin on it? Seashells, sand dollars or starfish are wonderful objects that you can copy and design however you like using Mold Making Material.
Objects with a flat side or base can be molded in one sitting with the One-Part Mold Method. Objects like the starfish don’t have a flat portion anywhere so they require the Two-Part Mold Method that we'll explain here. It's the best way to capture the texture of the whole object.
Let's "sea" if you can do it.
First, measure and cut a cardboard box big enough to fit the starfish. Line the inside of the box with packing tape so that it's waterproof and will easily release the mold.
Grab some Plasticine and spread it out inside the box so that the whole floor is covered.
Place your starfish into the Plasticine so that it is halfway covered. The starfish is delicate so be careful not to damage it.
Now it's time to bring on the Mold Making Material. Carefully measure out equal amounts of Part A and Part B by volume, not weight.
Combine the 2 parts and mix until the color is a consistent blue.
Pour the Mold Making Material mixture over the entire half of your object that is exposed in the Plasticine.
Now wait approximately 3 to 4 hours for the Mold Making Material to cure. Once that time has passed, cut and remove the Plasticine and mold from the box. Try not to damage the box as you will be using it again to pour the second half.
Remove all of the Plasticine, cleaning off any little bits that may be clinging to the object or mold.
Now it is time to make the second half of the mold. Flip over the mold and place it back into the cardboard frame. The starfish should be on top.
In order to fill the completed mold we need a pouring spout (FUN FACT: technically this is called a sprue). Take a straw or a small amount of the Plasticine and place it at the tip of one of the legs, against the box.
This pouring spout will provide the opening for you to pour in the substance that you intend to use to make your duplicate objects.
Once again, measure, mix and pour the Mold Making Material over the rest of the starfish and wait another 3 to 4 hours for the mixture to cure.
Remove the mold from the box as you are now ready to remove the starfish from the mold.
After removing the Plasticine spout, carefully cut an opening big enough to remove the starfish. In this case, we cut from the hole, down the top leg of the starfish, and across to the next leg. This cut was done symmetrically down both sides.
From there, only two legs were left completely inside the mold, and we were able to pry the mold open and remove the object.
Cleaning out the starfish mold is important as the organic object had debris that came loose in the mold.
Your Two-Part Mold is complete and you can now make exact replicas of your object.
You can use many different substances to fill the mold such as polyurethane and wax but we recommend ArtResin in combination with our line of ResinTints.
Just like Mold Making Material, ArtResin is a simple 1 to 1 ratio of resin and hardener. Measure out equal parts of both solutions and mix thoroughly for 3 minutes. You’ll have approximately 45 minutes of working time with the resin mixture before it will begin to set.
Grab any color of ResinTint and pour a few drops into the ArtResin. Then just mix 'er up.
Because you had to cut the mold open, you now need to tape the mold closed using Tuck Tape or packing tape.
Make sure it is securely sealed and slowly pour ArtResin into the mold through the pouring hole. If the hole is small, you may want to use an eye dropper.
ArtResin is hard to the touch after 24 hours but a full, hardened cure will take 72. Once your starfish has cured, remove it from the mold and admire your handiwork!
From there, have fun and create as many replicas as your heart desires.
...Do you copy? ;)
Jessica Mullis is our Instagram Winner!
Congratulations to artist Jessica Mullis, our latest Instagram winner! Jessica is a self-taught artist based in Dayton, Ohio. Though she works full time in graphic design, Jessica never considered herself an artist - until she was gifted a watercolor set that sent her on a whole new creative path.
Her first paintings were of the moon and made her fall in love with watercolors. Soon after, Jessica discovered ArtResin and the beautiful, mystical dimension it added to her work. So inspired, she began to experiment with resin's magic and endless creative possibilities.
You can find more of Jessica’s work on Instagram @moondrop.collective or on her website: www.moondropcollective.com
Congratulations on your win, Jessica!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next winner!!
ArtResin: Made For Artists, By Artists.
Bee O'Donovan is our Instagram Winner!
Congratulations to artist Bee O'Donovan, our latest Instagram winner! Bee is a full-time graphic designer and part-time artist. She has always been drawn to abstract art and mixed-media as it is a great way to create something beautiful and unique.
Every single one of Bee's art pieces is mesmerizing, vibrant and one of a kind. She not only creates canvas abstracts but stylized clocks as well.
Bee is happy to do commissioned pieces and will work with the client to determine the color palette they're looking for. Then she mixes and pours, switching between dirty pours or flip cups. It's all topped off with a shiny coat of ArtResin.
Bee never thought that having a business like this (that she loves) would be possible. She truly hopes that others enjoy watching her journey as she gets such a buzz out of creating her artwork - pun fully intended ;)
You can find more of Bee’s work on Instagram @made_by_bee_x or on her website: www.artmadebybee.com.
Congratulations on your win, Bee!
To celebrate all the amazing artists staying home and creating, every month we will be sending out a 32 oz kit to a couple of artists who have tagged us on Instagram—and we'll share their work with the world!
Don't forget, tag YOUR ArtResin work with @art_resin on Instagram, and YOU could be our next weekly winner!!
